Most winemakers agree that Viognier is one of the most difficult grapes to grow. Many will tell you that it was nearly extinct in the early 1970s because it is highly susceptible to mould and mildew, especially in the wetter season. While it generally offers very low yields, when cultivated lovingly and made into quality wine it can be sublime and even ethereal. In the glass Viognier offers a floral-driven bouquet complimented by aromas of tropical fruits, pineapple, and mango and flavours of peach, apple, honeydew, honeysuckle, and apricot. Some of the best Viognier is grown in the vineyards of Condrieu in the Northern Rhône Valley. Roughly translated as “corner of the stream,” Condrieu grows best along a nine-mile stretch of the Rhône River. Condrieu and Château Grillet, an eight-acre single vineyard within Condrieu, are the world’s only appellations that require their wines to contain 100 percent Viognier. Most vineyards here grow on granite hillsides with soils composed of flint, chalk, and mica which impart bracing minerality to the wines. Elsewhere in the world, Viognier grows in Virginia and Napa Valley, Australia, South Africa, Greece, Israel, and India.
Yves Cuilleron 2020 Condrieu Les Chaillets Rhone Valley France
Yves Cuilleron studied to be an engineer but when his uncle retired from the family winery, he decided to continue his family’s three-generation legacy of making wine. He studied in Burgundy and when he returned to the Rhône Valley he took over stewardship of the estate’s 145 acres. His 2020 Les Chaillets (French for “terraces”) is brilliant pale straw in colour with aromas of freesia, honeysuckle, and white stone fruits. With marked minerality on first sip, it opens to flavours of tropical fruits and bracing acidity in the finish. Buy now.
Stéphane Ogier 2019 Condrieu La Combe de Malleval Rhone Valley France
The Ogier family has been making wine in the Rhône Valley for seven generations and in 1997 Stéphane took over from his father Michel. He continues the traditions set forth by his predecessors, but he is also using his experience in Burgundy to work intimately with the different plots to reveal unique characteristics from each of them. His La Combe is golden straw coloured with aromas of stone fruit, peach, and guava. Very mineral driven in the palate, it offers flavours of nectarine and mango with a refreshing touch of salinity in the finish. Buy now.
Pierre Jean Villa 2021 Condrieu Jardin Suspendu Rhone Valley France
Pierre Jean was born in the Northern Rhône but learned to make wine in Burgundy. He worked for the esteemed Clos de Tart and Mommessin before returning home in 2003. After working in a wine group for six years, he decided to open his own domain, Pierre Jean Villa. His 2021 Condrieu has elements that remind us of a fine white Burgundy with aromas of stone fruits, lemon blossoms, and crushed oyster shell but in the mouth, it is decidedly more Rhône with flavours of nectarine, stone fruits, and a touch of dried apricot in the finish. Buy now.
Georges Vernay 2019 Condrieu Les Chailleess de L’Enfer Rhone Valley France
Founded in 1940, Georges Vernay is currently run by third-generation vintner Christine Vernay; just a few years ago her daughter joined her, representing the fourth generation of this family-run Rhône Valley winery. The 2019 continues the family tradition with aromas of honeydew, nectarine, and white citrus blossoms that transfer seamlessly to the palate with additional flavours of apple, pineapple, and mango. Buy now.
Darioush 2021 Signature Viognier Napa Valley California
As avid cyclists, we often ride our bikes on Silverado Trail and every time we pass Darioush we marvel at the ornate columns and buildings designed to evoke an ancient Persian temple. Owner Darioush Khaledis and his wife Shahpar emigrated from Persia to California and in 1998 they founded their eponymous winery and selected sites in the southern part of Napa Valley to craft their delightful wines. Their delicious Viognier is golden coloured in the glass with aromas of apricot, peach, and honeysuckle and flavours of nectarine, honeydew, and Gala apple. Buy now.
Cayuse 2015 Viognier Cailloux Vineyard Walla Walla Oregon
Christophe Baron was born in France but fell in love with Walla Walla and decided to call it home. He purchased a seemingly useless field of stones that many locals felt was unsuitable to make wine, but year after year Christophe has proven them wrong. His bottles are highly coveted by collectors and can be tough to get, but we found a 2015 that knocked our socks off. Nearly nine years old, this delightful wine is golden straw coloured and has aromas of stone fruits, apricot, and just a touch of white truffle. It is full bodied with flavours of tropical fruits, caramelised pineapple, and a youthful splash of acidity on the finish. Buy now.
By Farr 2021 Viognier Geelong Victoria Australia
The Farr family estate is located only 60 miles from modern Melbourne, but visiting the region made us feel like we were transported back in time. The first vineyards were planted by Swiss settlers in the early 1800s and many of their descendants continue to grow grapes and make fine wines in Victoria. Gary and Robyn Farr purchased their estate in 1994 and have made excellent wines from the start. Their 2021 has aromas of freshly cut flowers, mango, and guava with bracing minerality in the palate that complements flavours of pineapple, apple, and nectarine. Buy now.
