As one of Australia’s most iconic wineries, Penfolds boasts a rich legacy that spans more than 180 years. At the helm of this prestigious institution is Peter Gago, the chief winemaker whose passion for wine is as robust as the Shiraz he expertly crafts. In an exclusive conversation with Robb Report Hong Kong for Leaders of Luxury, Gago shared insights into his remarkable journey, the philosophy behind Penfolds, and the delicate art of winemaking.

Gago’s journey into the world of wine began not with a formal education, but with an insatiable curiosity and passion that many would describe as “the grip of the grape.” He recounts, “I wouldn’t say it’s become an obsession now, but almost.” His love affair with wine started when he joined Penfolds 36 years ago, and has since blossomed into a lifelong commitment. “I’ve been in my current role as chief winemaker since 2002. Just a little over 23 years,” he shares, reflecting on his extensive experience and dedication to the craft.

When discussing the creation of new wines, Gago’s enthusiasm is palpable. He explains the inception of a recent project that combines the best of both worlds—Penfolds Grange and La Chapelle. “This wine started almost as a dream—the very best of the Rhône Valley, [and] what we considered to be one of the best wines of Australia, Penfolds Grange.” Gago elaborates on the collaborative nature of winemaking, affirming, “The idea became a conversation, and the conversation became some trials. The trials became something that was bottled. And now what we see in front of us is the end result.” The process, he notes, is not always quick, but the journey is as rewarding as the destination.

When asked about the philosophy behind this new wine, Gago speaks of synergy and friendship. “This blend of La Chapelle and Grange is 50/50, and it came as a result of a relationship, a friendship, and the conversations that followed.” He describes the unique challenge of merging Shiraz from the Southern Hemisphere with Syrah from the Northern Hemisphere, a task that demands both skill and creativity. “It’s all about putting two colours together and ending up with a very different colour,” he explains, drawing a parallel between winemaking and artistry. “You don’t blend unless the result is better than what you started off with.” This meticulous approach highlights the importance of not just tasting but also feeling the wine, ensuring that every bottle tells a story of its origin and creation.

For Gago, the perks of being a chief winemaker extend beyond sampling exquisite wines. “The perks of this amazing job is you do try the product and then [the] result of the trials, and you do a lot of benchmarking.” However, he also acknowledges the challenges that come with the role. “The hours are a little bit obscure. Here I am [now], you know, [and] tomorrow early morning, I’ll be in another [place]—a lot of plane rides (and occasional lost luggage).”

Despite the demands of his profession, Gago expresses a profound love for what he does. “You really do have to like what you’re doing. And I love what I’m doing. We have a great winemaking team at Penfolds.” It’s clear that his passion for wine is matched only by his commitment to his team, which he credits for the collective success of Penfolds.

Gago also dispels common myths surrounding wine, particularly the notion that higher prices guarantee better quality. “A good wine is a wine that you remember. There are no absolutes in wine.” He emphasises the importance of personal preference and experience: “Classic wines of the world are wines that repeat this across their lifetime on many occasions.”

To illustrate his point, Gago describes his own approach to wine selection. “I use scores of wine to create shortlists. I’m not subservient to those scores, and many people aren’t.” This perspective encourages wine lovers to explore beyond conventional ratings and discover wines that resonate with their individual tastes.

For those venturing into the world of wine, Gago offers valuable advice: “Surround yourself with like-minded people who are also in pursuit of the unknowns and the points of difference.” He likens the experience of wine-tasting to music, expressing a desire for novelty and exploration. “I don’t want to hear that song again; show me something different.”

This spirit of discovery is at the heart of Gago’s philosophy, which invites wine enthusiasts to embark on their own journeys. “It’s all about sharing. It’s all about learning,” he reiterates, encouraging a culture of experimentation and enjoyment in wine appreciation.

When discussing the concept of luxury, Gago defines it as an all-encompassing experience. “Luxury is something that permeates you. You live it, you breathe it, you smell it, you sweat it.” He believes that true luxury in the wine world is not merely about exclusivity but rather about the richness of experiences and memories created through wine.

As he reflects on the upcoming releases from Penfolds, including the much-anticipated 2022 Great Glass Chef, Gago maintains a sense of excitement and curiosity. “We have a lovely tradition at Penfolds of surprising our customers,” he states, highlighting the winery’s commitment to innovation and excellence. Looking ahead, Gago remains optimistic about the future of Penfolds and the wine industry as a whole. “We might have the vintage of the century next year or we might not,” he muses. This humility and recognition of the unpredictability of nature is a testament to the artistry and patience required in winemaking.

Peter Gago’s journey as the chief winemaker of Penfolds is a testament to the passion, creativity, and dedication that define the world of luxury wine. Through his insights and philosophy, he invites wine lovers to explore and embrace the rich tapestry of flavours, stories, and experiences that each bottle represents. As we raise a glass to the future of Penfolds, we are reminded that, much like wine itself or the travels of Gago, the journey is as important as the destination. Whether you’re a seasoned connoisseur or a curious newcomer, there’s always something new to discover in the world of wine. After all, life is too short to drink anything less than the exceptional and the extraordinary—the red or white is up to you. 

All original images by Chris Yau shot exclusively for Robb Report Hong Kong, others courtesy of Penfolds.