Welcome to Checking In, a review series in which our editors and contributors rate the best luxury hotels based on a rigorous—and occasionally tongue-in-cheek—10-point system: Each question answered “yes” gets one point. Will room service bring you caviar? Does your suite have its own butler? Does the bathroom have a bidet? Find out below.
Describe the hotel in three words: Immersive hutong living.
What’s the deal?
Mandarin Oriental bolsters its hospitality options in China’s capital with a second opening amidst the ancient, maze-like alleyways of the charming Caochang hutong—one of the best-preserved examples of such storied neighbourhoods remaining in Beijing.
If sublime design and a jaunt through the past rank highly on your list, this is the place to be. 42 expansive wood-and-brick houses, each with their own private courtyards, are interspersed among traditional siheyuan residences for an authentic, immersive experience into Chinese history come alive. 90 per cent of the courtyard houses, meticulously renovated, maintain original features and architecture, their appearances expertly preserved for posterity, not to mention their histories and provenance: some of the houses were once home to imperial inspectors, scholars, business owners, and even Peking Opera performers.
Mandarin Oriental Qianmen, Beijing deftly balances a personal sanctuary in the heart of town with an authentic experience of being immersed within a living historical neighbourhood among local residents; it is blissfully quiet within the walls of the courtyard houses and the hutong alleys, and yet guests are only steps away from the goings-on in the city.
Chinese cultural heritage is a strong thread across the property, seen in such elements as the lobby reception counter, inspired by Ming-era painting tables and the ancient scholarly practice of preparing ink and brushes, and green inkstone inlays in the flooring. Lacquerware craftsmanship, screen paintings, Chinese landscapes, cloisonné decorative arts, and calligraphy are notable features across the hotel. Naturally, guided tours of the Caochang hutong and local arts and crafts workshops are part of the programming.
The best room?
It’s hard to choose one from the lot, considering all the courtyard houses are spectacular and distinct in their own ways, but it would be hard to pass up the Peking Mansion, a one-bedroom residence with ample living and dining spaces as well a tearoom, bath and rainforest shower, and, of course, a private courtyard with garden furniture.
Exquisite detailing is evident throughout; the design and décor, reflective of local Beijing life and the four seasons, are blended with Mandarin Oriental elegance and traditional hutong architecture. Exposed timber ceilings, delicate screens, floor-to-ceiling windows, and paintings made by Chinese artists form an elegant, modern expression of oriental aesthetics. It also comes with an interesting bit of lore: the Peking Mansion once belonged to a descendant of the traditional Chinese medicine producer Tong Ren Tang.
Did they greet you by name at check-in?
Yes. In fact, the personalised service began as soon as we stepped off the plane, with an airport staffer awaiting us at the arrival gate to take us through security—an arrangement made by the hotel. Mandarin Oriental car pick-up and transfer was a smooth process, and we were warmly greeted by name both by the concierge team at the airport and at the hotel upon arrival before being shown into the main building for that stunning first look of the Mandarin Oriental Qianmen, Beijing. After that, it’s off to the lobby for a painless check-in.
Was a welcome drink ready and waiting when you arrived?
Yes. A deeply warming osmanthus oolong tea was promptly served during check-in to stave off the cold—we checked into the hotel in January—and the selection changes seasonally. (In-room treats, meanwhile, over the course of the stay, ranging from handmade black sesame mochi balls and an assortment of chocolate bark and mooncakes to other traditional Chinese confectionaries, and there was a bottle of iced sparkling tea waiting as well.)
Private butler for every room?
24-hour butler services are available throughout the hotel for all categories of courtyard houses; the Mandarin Oriental team will set up a chat group on the most convenient and available digital communication channel for guests to make communications with staffers a breeze. Requesting buggy pick-up to travel between facilities, or seeking assistance with recommendations and reservations, is just a swift text message away. Another noteworthy detail is the shoeshine and glazing service offered by the Berluti-trained butler team.
Is the sheet thread count higher than 300?
Double that—the hotel uses plush 600-thread-count sheets from Quivera in its rooms.
Is there a heated floor in the bathroom? What about a bidet?
Beijing temperatures can drop to the sub-zeroes in the wintertime, so heated floors are installed not just in the bathroom, but throughout the villa, keeping things toasty and warm underfoot even during a heavy snow day. For those who cannot do without a bidet, here’s some more good news—the bathroom is equipped with a multi-functional Kohler model with all the bells and whistles, and is operated via a touchscreen panel. (Also, the seat is heated.)
Are the toiletries full-sized?
Yes; the toiletries are full-sized Cologne Indélébile Collection shampoo, conditioner, and body wash by Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle. A smaller, travel-sized set of the same can be found next to the freestanding bathtub, plus a jar of rose-scented bath salts. By far the coolest bathroom feature of all, however, is the foldable Mandarin Oriental-branded toiletries travel kit, which houses all your usual countertop amenities. Guests are encouraged to take the travel roll home with them to be reused for future trips—it’s all part of the MO Sustainability initiative that is becoming more prominent across its global properties.
Is there a private pool for the room’s exclusive use? How are the spa and gym?
No. In fact, there is no pool on the property at all due to governmental restrictions around subterranean development and major architectural alterations of the historical hutong and siheyuan structures; that means no below-ground digging to make room for a pool, and the available space overground is not large enough to accommodate one, either.
On the bright side, with health and wellness being key pillars of the Mandarin Oriental experience, the Spa is an extensive healing space where traditional Chinese wellness practices are blended with modern techniques; the facility comprises treatment rooms, a steam room, a sauna, a teahouse for ceremonies and meditations, and the Qiyuan Healing Space for auditory therapies. (Spa director Spencer Chen is the person to see about a transcendental gong bath.) Meanwhile, the fitness centre offers state-of-the-art cardio machines and free weights, plus instructor-led classes for yoga, tai chi, and personal training. For the final say in relaxation, opt for the Moonlight Stone Therapy—our spa therapist certainly seemed to have invoked some greater natural power in the way she expertly located, identified, and eliminated every knot in our shoulders. You can also opt for the lengthier Moonlight Dream experience, which includes a rose foot ritual and body exfoliation, warm moonstone massage, gua sha face- and head-combing massage, and sound-healing session.
Is the restaurant worth its salt?
Yes. Exquisite Cantonese and Chaozhou cuisine can be had at the Chef Fei-ideated Yan Garden. Executive Chinese chef Peter Chen and the renowned Chef Fei, one of the leading chefs in the country with two Michelin stars, collect the essence of Chinese gastronomic achievements into menus spotlighting premium seasonal ingredients. From chilled marinated mantis prawns in vintage Huadiao wine, signature deep-fried pigeon, wok-fried Wagyu beef cubes with Sichuan pepper, and boiled boneless crucian carp congee to a geoduck clam and Chaozhou laver soup, the list of dishes is extensive and diverse. Yan Garden’s copper hot pot meal, a special dining experience rooted in Beijing tradition, is also available upon request for guests in higher-tier houses, and highly recommended.
Vicini, helmed by Edoardo Luongo, brings vibrant Italian dining to the fore, alongside views overlooking the tiled roofs of the surrounding hutong and siheyuan residences. On the menu is a catalogue of familiar flavours, some with novel twists: risotto alle capesante with scallops, caviar, and conpoy; spaghettoni with red prawn, Chaozhou laver, and citrus; lingua di manzo beef tongue with salsa verde and homemade pickle; astice poached lobster with Roman broccoli, lobster jus, and confit tomatoes; contro filetto sirloin steak with mash potatoes, beet leaf, and beef jus; and the refreshing sgroppino, a table-side take on the Italian cocktail made into dessert form with lemon sorbet, limoncello, and prosecco. Maple Lounge, in the hotel lobby looking out at the inner courtyard, serves exquisite afternoon tea where Chinese and Western sensibilities meet in the shape of bite-sized delicacies.
Do you want to spend Friday night in the lobby bar?
Yes. Contemporary cocktail bar Tiao melds hutong lore and charm with innovative mixology, distilled into a menu packed with poetic interpretations and drinks crafted from local ingredients. From the Storytellers Corner, expressive concoctions such as the Kilchoman-based Hidden Tea House, blended with lapsang souchong tea, milk, honey, amaretto, and citrus, evoke a jaunt down Beijing’s winding alleyways, while the literary-influenced Oath of the Peach Garden highlights Plantation rum, peach liqueur, honey, lemon, and grapefruit in a nod to the Chinese epic Romance of the Three Kingdoms. Our personal favourite had to be the Five to Ten, a tanghulu-inspired mocktail made local vinegar, ginger, lemon, and soda, and topped with a sugar-coated garnish. Creative presentations range from drinks served in miniature baijiu-barrel-like receptacles to a cocktail dusted in a dramatic spritz of sparkle.
Would you buy the hotel if you could?
Absolutely. Mandarin Oriental has accomplished a remarkable design and preservation feat with its Qianmen property, balancing local traditions and Chinese heritage with the top-notch service and atmosphere we have come to expect of the luxury hospitality brand. It is marvellous and humbling to spend time in a lovingly and impeccably restored slice of living history, and the cultural immersion that comes with a stay at the Mandarin Oriental Qianmen, Beijing is a revelation—experiences like these are few and far between.
Score: 9
What Our Score Means:
1–3: Fire your travel agent if they suggest you stay here.
4–6: Solid if you’re in a pinch—but only if you’re in a pinch.
7–8: Very good. We’d stay here again and recommend it without qualms.
9–10: Forget booking a week. When can we move in permanently?
All images courtesy of Mandarin Oriental Qianmen, Beijing.
