“It wasn’t our intention to own a watch brand—ever,” says Alex Rosenfield, the co-CEO of the newly relaunched Danish-Swiss watchmaking brand Urban Jürgensen, referring to himself and his father, Andrew, a silent co-owner. Neither has a business background in horology. Alex (pictured, right) has worked in fashion, marketing, and media and was decked in head-to-toe Thom Browne when Robb Report met him in Geneva in April. Andrew, meanwhile, is president of the financial-services juggernaut Guggenheim Partners. But together, with master independent watchmaker and co-CEO Kari Voutilainen they are breathing new life into the enterprise founded in Copenhagen over two and a half centuries ago and now based in Bienne, Switzerland.

Andrew is a longtime collector. “My father started collecting Urban Jürgensen in the late ’90s and has always loved it,” says Alex. “He thought of it as one of the great watch brands.” He also has other heavyweight independents like Rexhep Rexhepi and Philippe Dufour in his vault. When Andrew learned Urban Jürgensen was in financial trouble, he was determined to save it. The first person he approached as a partner was Voutilainen. The watchmaker began his career at the company, so returning to lead its workshop while he continues to operate his own revered namesake brand in Môtiers has been a seamless transition for all involved. “Kari is himself very entrepreneurial and creative, and I think he’s always looking to do new things,” says Alex. “We were really lucky, but it was a good fit.”

Naturally, the watches reflect the master’s touch. There are his signature exaggerated Breguet-style hands, Roman-numeral hour markers, well-balanced dials, and immaculate finishing. Three models launch today: the limited-edition UJ1 (in platinum with a silver or grey dial and in gold with a silver dial, all limited to 25 each (CHF 368,000 or approximately HK$3.52 million); the time-only UJ2, powered by a double-balance-wheel natural escapement (CHF 105,000 or approximately HK$1 million); and the perpetual calendar UJ3, featuring an instantaneous moon phase created by Andreas Strehler (CHF 168,000 or approximately HK$1.6 million).

But the grail is the UJ1—a wristwatch take on a legendary oval pocket watch, with a flying tourbillon coupled with a remontoire and detent escapement, begun by the late Derek Pratt of Urban Jürgensen and finished by his protégé, Voutilainen. The one-of-a-kind pocket watch sold at Phillips last November for nearly US$4.5 million (approximately HK$35.32 million).

What is entirely new is Alex’s vision for the branding. Drawing upon his fashion background, he brought on famed photographer Ellen von Unwerth for visuals, developed bespoke typography based on Urban Jürgensen’s own calligraphy, and even introduced Lug, a Great Dane mascot, who wears a timepiece around his neck. “We can take the watchmaking seriously,” Alex says. “But we don’t have to take ourselves too seriously.”