It’s a landmark year for The Park Lane Hong Kong, a Pullman Hotel. Facing Victoria Park on one side and Victoria Harbour on the other, this well-established city hotel has stood the test of time, reaching its fifth decade, and many celebrations are in the offing to mark its golden year; at top of our list was a dining experience that was written in the (Michelin) stars.
From the rooftop at Skye, The Park Lane Hong Kong’s signature restaurant and rooftop bar, the views are second to none. Come for the panoramas, but do stay for dinner, especially this season, as the new menu has the rustic charm of unpretentious French and floral cuisine.
Thierry Drapeau, former two-Michelin-starred chef and current head chef at Signature Bangkok, has collaborated with Skye’s in-house team to create a rosy menu that one rarely experiences in the city, leaning on his “cuisine of the soil” philosophy that emphases farm-to-table dining practices. Not just as garnish or decoration, but part of the flavour profile and texture, we found marigolds and elderflowers blossoming on our plate, and begonias among the saporous and photogenic plating that swung our way time and again, from the busy kitchens to the well-packed, not-a-table-to-spare dining area.
Starting off with an amuse-bouche, comprising potimarron (onion squash) and chestnut that we dipped into a bacon emulsion and cosmos, and served with a Lustau Palo Cortado “Península” Solera Reserva sherry wine, the festooned presentation had everyone’s cameras out. And so began our multi-course dinner, featuring a rustic array of the finest and freshest ingredients, sourced locally, that drew on the subtle and delicate notes of edible flowers and herbs. The concentration of flavours and flowers was trippy, but that could have been the curated libations as each plate arrived with a wine glass of generous pour.
Signature dishes came in two options—the sea or farm—in the shape of La Mer, a delicately poached langoustine complemented by the vibrant sweetness of carrot mousseline, miso siphon, and marigolds, and La Terre, a Challans duck with crisp skin, enhanced by braised salsify, cauliflower mousseline, and sauce salmis. Even among table neighbours who tried a bite of each other’s dish, it was difficult to pick a favourite among the two, but the texture and temperature mix of the warm sliver of duck and soft cauliflower mousse made for an interesting bite. In-between, the La Ferme artichoke with black truffle, watercress, and elderflower, and the L’Ocean toothfish with borage showcased delicate preparation skills.
Mid-bite, the star of the hour, Drapeau, dropped by for a chat, explaining his philosophy to guests, retelling a story of each ingredient’s origin, terroir, and significance to the plate. Drapeau opened his restaurant, Logis de La Chabotterie, in France back in 2004, which went on attain two Michelin stars for nine consecutive years, a formidable achievement. His gastronomic excursions in Asia are the sum of great experience and know-how.
By the time dessert—the “Granny Smith” apple with basil, Isigny cheese, and begonia—arrived at the table in a conical shape upon the plate, all were already chatting about the impression of the night, an experience that perfectly aligns the venue’s contemporary farm-to-table concept with Drapeau’s unique “French and floral” gastronomy.
While the exclusive experience with Drapeau himself took place only on 19 and 20 January during his two-day appearance at The Park Lane Hong Kong, the Cuisine of the Soil menu continues in his absence. For an exploratory meal with a wine pairing that’s also exquisite, book a table at the soonest, as the menu is worth digging into.
Skye at The Park Lane Hong Kong, a Pullman Hotel
27/F, 310 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong
Tel: (+852) 2839 3327
All images courtesy of The Park Lane Hong Kong, a Pullman Hotel.
