Welcome to Checking In, a review series in which our editors and contributors rate the best luxury hotels based on a rigorous—and occasionally tongue-in-cheek—10-point system: Each question answered “yes” gets one point. Will room service bring you caviar? Does your suite have its own butler? Does the bathroom have a bidet? Find out below.

Describe the hotel in three words: Characterful. Maximalist. Vivacious.

What’s the deal?

Hotelier and entrepreneur Alex Ohebshalom is the brains and the driving force behind this luxury establishment, and with its first anniversary just come and gone, the Fifth Avenue Hotel stands as a testament to a new generation of New York hospitality. Old and new Manhattan are meticulously embodied in this eclectic property in the NoMad neighbourhood; each room is filled to the brim with sensational colour, texture, and atmosphere.

Split into the Mansion—the historical old build that was revitalised—and the 24-storey new structure that rounds out the rest of the hotel, the property, a member of the Leading Hotels of the World collection, houses a comfortable 153 rooms on Fifth Avenue and 28th Street, and is poised to awe guests with its bohemian, romantic, artistic, and glamorous spirit.

Bold and maximalist, Brudnizki liberally wallpapers his artful aesthetic onto the proffered canvas: a low-rise Gilded-Age structure penned by McKim, Mead & White and the abutting glass tower added on by Perkins Eastman and PBDW Architects. However, at no point does the eclectic interior descend into a realm of colourful chaos—the Swedish designer achieves a controlled application that is nonetheless full of life. Building on the dramatic arches and linearity of the Italian Renaissance palazzo-like edifice, early-20th-century flair meets modern grandeur in this restored brick-and-limestone jewellery-box landmark.

The best room?

The Fifth has several signature suites to choose from, including two themed after Charles Baudelaire, the ultimate flâneur and inspiration behind the property’s ethos. Book the Flâneur Suite, a roughly 79-square-metre penthouse abode furnished with a king-size bed, spacious living and dining areas, and a generous 57-square-metre terrace overlooking the picturesque New York city skyline. (Call or email The Fifth’s reservations team directly to book.)

Does the hotel have a standout perk?

Art enthusiasts and connoisseurs will find themselves entranced by the fastidiously curated collection at The Fifth. Stepping inside the hotel feels akin to entering a curio shop—there’s something to see in every corner, running the gamut from so-called “flea-market finds” to gallery-circuit fine artists, and each pass through the corridors reveals a new detail previously missed.

Pae White’s mesmerising lobby tapestry sets the tone; striking photography by the likes of William Klein, Gordon Parks, and Melvin Sokolsky provide stark, monochromatic contrast; and a multimedia installation by Graham Caldwell adds palpable visual texture and surrealism. Here, the devil is in the details: Parisian master craftsmen hand-pleated the ruched-silk wall coverings; ornate wallpapers, elaborately illustrated and patterned, follow you from room to room; and the Murano glass chandeliers, antique mirrors, marble surfaces, inlaid furniture, and chinoiserie artefacts add richness to the design language.

Did they greet you by name at check-in?

Yes, as well as all throughout the stay. We loved how intuitive and accessible the staff members were, treading the right balance between personable and professional.

Was a welcome drink ready and waiting when you arrived?

No, but it showed up in the room shortly after arrival, which is just as well, as it was freshly made. One of the private butlers on duty brought us grapefruit juice with smoked cinnamon, a refreshing seasonal concoction that revived our spirits on a sweltering summer’s day.

Private butler for every room?

Both suites and rooms benefit from The Fifth’s excellent private butler service—a blessing.

Is the sheet thread count higher than 300?

It is exactly 300, and the fine cotton linens are supplied by Bellino and made in Italy. Pair that with the property’s plush Duxiana mattresses and a heavenly sleep is all but guaranteed.

Is there a heated floor in the bathroom? What about a bidet?

Bathrooms in the Mansion rooms and suites are heated, so if you prefer a toasty feeling underfoot, those will be the accommodations to book. Our suite—the Fifth Avenue Suite—did not come with bidet, but it more than impressed us in size; the bathtub and shower areas are practically a separate room, and there’s more than enough space to swing a cat (or two).

Are the toiletries full-sized?

Yes. Not only are the bath amenities full-sized, but the toiletries are custom-blended by Brooklyn-based scent company Apotheke for the hotel with their own original fragrance, a potent blend of olive, cedarwood, and black cassis. Aside from the standard line-up of shampoo, conditioner, and body wash, the showers also come with a handy body scrub.

Is there a private pool for the room’s exclusive use? How are the spa and gym?

Real estate is to be had at a premium in this part of town, and while the hotel has a basic gym with cardio machines, free weights, and a high-tech digital training interface operated by tablet, it does not have its own pool or spa. Instead, The Fifth partners with local gyms and fitness studios in the neighbourhood, such as Humming Puppy Yoga, SoulCycle, and Barry’s Bootcamp, to offer guests use of their facilities and classes. Simply ask your butler to arrange in-room spa and wellness treatments, should you desire a day of pampering. Also, The Fifth has recently brought in Japanese skincare brand Clé de Peau Beauté to do a Beauty Suite pop-up, featuring an exclusive facial treatment created specifically for the hotel and its guests, designed to hydrate, awaken, soothe, and add radiance to the skin through a serum gel mask.

Is the restaurant worth its salt?

Yes, and the crowds that showed up to dinner on a weekday night only reinforce that notion. Main restaurant Café Carmellini was packed to the rafters, with guests coming from near and far for the signature chicken “Gran Sasso,” a winning recipe put forward by the James Beard Award-winning Andrew Carmellini, restaurant namesake and veteran chef behind the fine-dining experience. Blending Italian and French cooking traditions, his menu stacks oysters à la pomme and bluefin tuna crudo against such dishes as artichoke almondine, rabbit cacciatore, veal medallions alla osso buco, and squab en croute for a familiar but refined presentation. Add master sommelier Josh Nadel into the mix, and what results is a wine cellar of more than 1,800 labels, sourced from top-notch producers around the globe.

Charming Old-World design continues into the establishment—think Neoclassical, plush royal-blue banquettes, orange leather armchairs, clusters of dramatic globe-light chandeliers, and full-size sculptural trees sprouting from furniture-integrated planters for that extra element of wow and Montmartre French-bistro feeling. Spring for a table on the mezzanine-slash-balcony floor for a spot of privacy and to observe the bustle of liveried waitstaff below.

Do you want to spend Friday night in the lobby bar?

Sure. Duck into the Italian-villa-inspired Portrait Bar and you will be in good company—though not the kind you might expect. Other guests will be present, of course, but you will find yourself outnumbered by painted, illustrated, and photographed frames of various visages lining the wood-panelled walls, a collection of fictitious stories and lives lived. Bar director Darryl Chan devised the menu around evocative global destinations; sip on the St James, where “afternoon tea meets English milk punch” in a blend of gin, cucumber, blackberries, and Earl Grey tea, while the Kolkata, billed as “a mango lassi Painkiller,” transports drinkers with rum, sotol, mango, coconut, almond, orange, and Bombay spices. Close your eyes and rest your feet by the stone fireplace and dream of different climes.

For a spot to while away the afternoon or plunge into focus mode for a few hours, head to The Study or The Conservatory, a Victorian winter-garden-like space with a charming skylight feature and vine-draped trellis detailing. (Both venues can also be rented out for events, accommodating up to 85 guests for a reception or 40 for a seated affair.)

Would you buy the hotel if you could?

We’d sure like to. Beautiful design and museum-worthy art collection aside, the property’s location in the heart of Manhattan makes it a cinch to get around town, and the unique character of the hotel is wildly attractive, continuously pleasing the eye and delighting the senses. Although lacking a few facilities that frequent travellers expect to see as part of their stay—a pool and fitness centre, for example—The Fifth nonetheless addresses its shortcomings creatively. Plus, dining at Café Carmellini on a regular basis for a taste of the superb duck-duck-duck tortellini is reason enough to put this hotel in your back pocket.

Score: 8.5

What Our Score Means:

1–3: Fire your travel agent if they suggest you stay here.

4–6: Solid if you’re in a pinch—but only if you’re in a pinch.

7–8: Very good. We’d stay here again and recommend it without qualms.

9–10: Forget booking a week. When can we move in permanently?

All images courtesy of The Fifth Avenue Hotel.