Haute Headlines and History

In the wake of Succession, the stealth-wealth phenomenon only continues to grow. According to Robb Report, fashion retailer Karen Millen analysed a trove of Google data to reveal that it was the year of “old-money style,” a search term that grew 568 per cent. Quasi-synonymous phrases such as “quiet luxury” (373 per cent) and “stealth wealth” (334 per cent) saw an equally dramatic spike in interest among the trillion-plus annual searches.

As men bequeathed with a sense of high fashion and high currency stocked up on legacy luxury brands, sales among the top-drawer designers were on a steady upwards incline, affected by neither politics nor pandemic. At the time of writing, LVMH earnings in the second quarter of 2023 reveal that “Asia held up the market” with a 34 per cent increase in the region, outperforming Europe and the US, and the company saw “double-digit sales growth,” according to Forbes.

Under the influence of refined taste, not influencers, heir and grace have always bent at the knee for the pride and privilege of being draped and dressed in exalted knits (Zegna and Loro Piana), exquisite craftsmanship (Hermès and Loewe), bespoke excellence (Ascot Chang), gear that can be passed on through many generations (Saint Laurent), and, of course, all things Italian (Prada, Armani, Stefano Ricci, Brunello Cucinelli, and even the quite quirky Moschino). Heck, an all-Italian menswear edition is not that far off course for all things haute and homme.

Although it’s the trend now, Robb Report has been featuring menswear in sombre shades and muted tones since memory serves, eschewing editorials on celebrity powered fads for paeans on fabric and construction. We study the sourcing of cashmere, vicuña, camel hair, and mulberry silk in legacy brands, and hold up a loupe to the artisans who embroider, stitch, and weave by hand the magnificent threads that outlive the seasons.

At the top of the fashion food chain this year, it’s a heady mix-and-match of the usual heavy hitters and the slow burn of the urban sophisticate, here to disrupt long-standing regimes of debonair menswear. Miu Miu, Loewe, and Prada jostled for the honour of “hottest brand of the year,” according to the quarterly Lyst Index, with Loewe coming out of left field to dominate Q2. Several notable brands made headlines, some even history, as the powers that be in the most valuable fashion companies in the world spent big money to showcase their wares. It was a gentleman’s agreement for the maisons to go all out for menswear (theatrics usually reserved for the gowns and glory of womenswear): the shows in the fashion capitals were splendid, be it in New York (Ralph Lauren’s grand return to New York Fashion Week), London (Burberry saw Daniel Lee debut and dazzle with the brand), Paris (Louis Vuitton with Pharrell Williams and all the stars of the firmament), and Milan (Prada showed it takes two—Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons—to tango), while Tom Ford went digital for his final parting shot, bidding his eponymous brand goodbye after selling it to Estée Lauder in 2022.

A special chapter in this edition of Best of the Best honours Ralph Lauren for a saga that continues to entrance the world, followed by a shoot featuring autumn winter looks and Lauren’s enviable collection of classic cars, harkening back to how Robb Report originally began—as a newsletter shared to classic car collectors and members of the Rolls-Royce Owners Club. It all comes full circle.

---

Knitwear

Loro Piana

Fine knitwear begins and ends with Loro Piana, and—in full confession—the Italian house’s autumn-winter collection is continually superlative and worthy of being listed among the best of the very best. Had it not been for the attention brought on the brand by the stars of several popular television shows, Loro Piana, with no visible print or obvious logo, would have sailed quietly by the limelight, like two luxury yachts passing in the night.

However, this past year, the autumn-winter collection was a celebration of Loro Piana’s heritage, innovation, and expertise as eyes were guided to the homelands of Loro Piana’s key fibres: wool from New Zealand, cashmere from Mongolia, and vicuña from Peru. Loro Piana’s campaign is asking the world to travel again—in the lap of luxury. For the winter collection, the makers are clearly in a warm, celebratory mood. Coarsehair cashmere, shearling, baby cashmere, and Cashfur (cashmere with a hint of silk) are all embellished with handcrafted, intimate embroidery for a versatile, contemporary look that can be mixed and matched with any other piece in their wardrobe. Look at the comforting joggers, coats, and jackets—irrepressibly sensual, and made of the finest fabric.

Asian Excellence

Ascot Chang

A sign of power and prestige, getting a bespoke suit measured to exacting standards and stitched to form-fitting perfection from a noble house in Hong Kong has been historically recorded on film and in literature. Dynasty comes to mind; Tai Pan mentions it in both novel and television series. When captains of industry rest ashore, they get a suit made between wheels and deals, preferably, in our books, at Ascot Chang. A genuine labour of love, 40-plus hours of handwork is required for the hand-rolled lapels and a full canvas construction at this famed suit-maker’s fitting rooms, founded in 1953. Ascot Chang states that its “mission is to deliver the highest quality of tailoring with world-class service.” Say it with me: Mission accomplished.

Evening Dress

Stefano Ricci

This Florentine menswear behemoth is known for its impeccable quality and effortless sophistication; the level of perfection in the cut, form, and fabrication that the Italian artisans are famed for is visible in every garment, from jacket sleeve to curled toe. As the brand quietly parts the curtains of its signature store at The Peninsula Hong Kong, we take a closer look at the brand that has been whispered about in esoteric circles of the elegant for a long time.

Brothers Niccolo Ricci (CEO) and Filippo Ricci (creative director) celebrated world adventure and discovery this year, capturing campaign looks in the Galápagos Islands. As these fine threads in portrait so aptly display, it’s survival of the fittest. Be it the two-button deconstructed jackets or the form-fitted Fiesole jacket (pictured), the streamlined, sleek silhouettes make the man appear taller, leaner, and tighter. Made with exquisite cashmere with a lighter interior, the ease of the sleeve and measured fit provide unparalleled elegance and freedom of movement for the man about town.

Spectacle

Louis Vuitton

A multi-hyphenate phenomenon in his own right, ageless wonder and musician Pharrell Williams strutted out of the shadows and legacy that Virgil Abloh had left at Louis Vuitton to premiere his debut collection with the prized jewel of LVMH, fashion’s most valuable company.

In summer 2023, the Seine in Paris was the place to be; celebrities of all stripes flew to the fashion capital to sit in the front row and bear witness to history in the making. Hype or hyperbole? Neither. Well, maybe a bit of both. Louis Vuitton’s turnout was phenomenal, as was the collection that many in fashion circles were questioning before the latest line walked down Pont Neuf, on streets of gold and an ankle-breaking runway from one far end to another. Despite the “stunts,” as the harshest critics wrote, the clothes were simultaneously a tribute as well as an exercise in fashion-forward movement.

So versatile was Williams’s collection that there’s a little something for everyone. We picked this royal-blue suit to showcase in our annual compendium, but wait, stop the press—as we go to print, it’s just been announced that Williams will stage Louis Vuitton’s men’s pre-autumn show in Hong Kong for a global audience. We eagerly await the reveal with bated breath.

Informal Formal

Loewe

Loewe snatched the top spot in the Lyst Index’s hottest brands and products report for the first time in 2023, sending seismic ripples through the hearts of luxury maisons and shoppers who are used to seeing other European syllables on the quarterly roster. LVMH-owned, the Spanish brand has piqued our interest since its young creative director Jonathan Anderson—he of the Irish brand JW Anderson—brought in a healthy sense of reductionism while being steadfast in his commitment to construction and craft. A navy coat over an ivory top may not scream fashion, but that’s sort of the point.

Responsible Retail

Zegna

In its latest catwalk show, centred around Oasi cashmere, Zegna is leading the charge in its commitment to responsible retail, with the intention to certify Oasi cashmere fibres as 100 per cent traceable by this year. Indeed, in 2024, Zegna’s innovative textiles and deep rooted values will be on full display as the brand shows by example that an accountable wardrobe is not a quixotic goal, but an attainable venture within sight. As celebrities, high-end retailers, and fashion editors-at-large arrived in Milan to attend the viewing of runway looks from artistic director Alessandro Sartori, Zegna’s Oasi of Cashmere show was a lit candle illuminating that there is hope for the industry. Year after year, gorgeous menswear from the brand is a given. Now, it comes with a healthy dose of guilt-free retail therapy.

Colour Block

Moschino

When Davide Renne joined Moschino as its creative director, celebration was in the air, but as we went to publish, tragedy struck: News arrived that the designer had passed suddenly. A top seat is now left vacant—a fashion house without a designer. As the industry grapples with the loss of Renne, at least there’s somewhat of a blueprint to follow for the maison that Franco Moschino built: contemporary fashion filled with a surreal bent, full of tongue-in-cheek takes on all things Italian and chic. Moschino’s colour palette is bolder, the shoulders are broader, the collar is thicker, and the brand never shies away from “more is more.” A great sense of style is like music, full of high and low notes that make harmony, and this mulled-wine suit, paired with a wide, collar length lapel, is just pitch perfect. Now, the question remains, who will be the next composer for Moschino?

Prints

Versace

In the vortex of Versace’s baroque realm of excess, permeated with silver, gold, glitter, and extreme patterns and print, sensuality amplified to the max is almost a given. Picking a wardrobe staple with the volume turned down from the roaring glam rock that Gianni built and Donatella spiked to the stratosphere seems an inconceivable task. Could Donatella dish out something classic, in a wearable silhouette an Etonian might be seen in? Last summer, Versace’s menswear showcased an archive print featuring the frozen-in-lava death masks of Pompeii—even the clothes belt out dramatic opera, while the world of quiet luxury hums to the tune of an alto flute. We found this luxurious herringbone overcoat and paired it with an embroidered shirt that sparkled in the light. Its construction, fabrication, silhouette, cut, and length is perfection, but, of course, the Bella Donatella had to put her stamp on it. Any other designer would have sold it in shades of navy or grey, but she opted for mandarin. Unexpected, yet delightful.

Shearling Coat

Dior

Only at Dior can English literature and English countryside take precedence at a menswear showing, putting an original spin on the phrase “mind over matter.” Pop and poetry at a fashion show? Really? A film projected on giant screens performing T. S. Eliot’s poem, The Waste Land, was the canvas on which creative director Kim Jones showcased his summer fare, while K-pop stars of note wearing signature pieces were seated front and centre. Works of literature to inspire a collection, by a man famed for his love of rare books (Jones referenced Virginia Woolf in his Fendi couture debut and Jack Kerouac for Dior’s 2022 autumn collection)—this theme is not uncommon. But how does that translate in practical terms into a luxury wardrobe? Well, how about the duality of this leopard-print shearling coat camouflaged in beige, and studded with coral and shell brooches? The fringe is entrenched in the jacket, but presents itself like a double layer. It’s poetry, really.

Outerwear

Hermès

Hermès was heading for the hills on a literal and sartorial hike as it asked of men to conquer new heights. Flip a coin; heads, we pick the summer line, which showcased sunset tints and a collection featuring Berlingot canvas, nubuck calfskin, crêpe cotton serge, and perforated leather; tails, we pick the winter gear, a collection “with a tang of oxymoron, sweet and sharp, for walking men.” Unfamiliar with this avant-garde lingua franca, we rifled through the entire range to find wardrobe essentials with alternative volumes, variable lengths in jackets, and print and colour combinations with a novel twist. Above all, the precise construction remains. Being timeless and of the times—how do they do it?

Tailoring

Prada

Prada’s 2023 spring-summer and autumn-winter menswear collections were presented by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, showing a magical alchemy of two heavy metals in their natural element. “Reduction” is the word that comes up again and again in Prada’s design philosophy this year. According to the brand, “extraneous details are shorn” from its summer collection, with “collars removed on shirts and coats.” In winter, “Modernist precepts of reduction and simplicity combine with their apparent contradictions: comfort, exaggeration, [and] intimacy.” For us, these choices manifest in a wardrobe with strong edits—the superfluous is culled, the extraneous hacked. And yet, there’s a surprise that Prada has left for us among the various looks: that burgeoning rose print, embroidered on the white-collar shirt. Hope does spring eternal.

Collection

Brunello Cucinelli

Robb Report flew down to Italy this past September to honour Brunello Cucinelli for a double celebration—the designer’s 70th birthday and his eponymous maison’s 45th anniversary. As expected, the “King of Cashmere” asked the audience to dress the part, and so they did, in “shades of white, panama, light grey, and beige,” as the curlicued invitation suggested. But beige? Once an anathema to stylists the world over, a muted shade best left in a cup of mocha, the clever suits behind the seams of Succession, Billions, The Crown, Elite, and The Gilded Age all studied the wardrobe of the one per cent, who, in fact, dress in shades of… well, white, panama, light grey, and beige. Earlier in 2023, we had predicted that Cucinelli would well surpass the billion-dollar sales mark this coming year; as we go to print, it has. While the menswear summer palettes were shades luring you to sun and sea, the winters are all warm, delicious notes of chocolate brown, beige, and caramel, all complementing the signature colours and timeless silhouettes.

Photoshoot credits:

Location: Regent Hong Kong
Photographer: Michael Wong
Stylist: Tasha Ling 
Hair: Jean Tong
Make-up: Amy Lee
Make-up Assistant: Lika Leung
Styling Assistant: Chiaki Ng
Male Model: Hasan from Primo Models
Female Model: Kiran from Elite Models

---

. . . AND OUR BEST SHOES OF THE YEAR

Boots

Giuseppe Zanotti Jaure

When a brand is a staple on the red carpet, known for its bejewelled heels and glittering leather accessories, the men’s section often gets relegated to a forgotten corner. Not today—Italian luxury footwear brand Giuseppe Zanotti has consistently had a men’s footwear section boasting key components of style, refined aesthetics, and incomparable quality. Our latest peek at the gentleman’s department of Zanotti reveals vibrant sneakers, fashion-forward moccasins, and urban-inspired boots, but our eyes are drawn to the Jaure ankle boots, with a shearling inner lining and chunky soles. Practical and functional are not often operative words in fashion and accessories, but Zanotti does it so effortlessly, and the Jaure is elegant to boot. Pun intended.

Oxfords

Perry Ercolino Audley

Custom-made Perry Ercolino shoes have been featured in Robb Report for years and, upon revisit, it’s not a comeback to the list, but a reminder of why he’s still among the best in the business. In his own words, Ercolino has been creating—not following—footsteps in fashion: “With proper care, shoes at this level can last many years. In 2023, the trend that seems to be most prevalent for young professionals is getting back to being well-dressed, both for casual and work attire. Show them great options and they will respond; the men and women who are looking to reset their wardrobe choices can and should be a bit more discriminating. Classics still rule the day, and a timeless piece of clothing or footwear will pay dividends every time.”

Brogues

Silvano Lattanzi EG1 in Alligator Leather

Since 1971, Italian shoemaker Silvano Lattanzi has been handcrafting exquisite leather footwear for discerning gentlemen, drawing from his vast archival “laboratory” of textiles, patterns, colours, and patinas to inform his creations. “All of the collections that I have ever designed and made personally from 1971 to today are stored. Each model can still be reproduced today,” says Lattanzi of his extensive library, which includes this two-tone stunner inspired by a Van Gogh painting. “In Italy, the work of manual skills has not been completely lost, and the shapes [and] styles that are worn by royalty are still on trend.” He tells Robb Report Hong Kong that “the good God, he sent me to Earth to make good shoes.” Amen to that.

Loafers

Tom Ford “Sean” Alligator-Print Tassel Loafers

Start your look from the feet and work your way up, as per the stylist of the dapper man, in which case, let the sartorial canvas begin at the toes of Tom Ford. Bring out the hidden rockstar in you with almost any of the patterned designs from his footwear line, but we are head over heels for this pair of alligator-print tasselled loafers—the quality is next-level, and we’re figuratively and literally at the feet of Ford as he struts away from the empire he built. As the American fashion designer has famously stated, his range is for “men who appreciate detail and quality.” Hence, “the product must be the best.” Ford may be offloading his eponymous business to Estée Lauder to focus on film projects, but he’s sure stepping out in style.

Japanese Shoemaking

Yohei Fukuda Ebony

Patience is key when it comes to getting your hands on a pair of bespoke shoes crafted by Japanese artisan Yohei Fukuda—his years-long waitlist can attest to that. Fukuda’s most recent visit to Hong Kong in spring 2023, a by-appointment-only trunk show at The Armoury, was a scintillating affair for shoe aficionados who appreciate style and precision. Fukuda, a master craftsman who trained at the Tresham Institute in Northamptonshire, has always eschewed trends for timelessness: “We don’t intend to make a shoe that’s about fashion. I want my shoes to be classic so the customer can wear them for 20 or 30 years.” You can pick up a pair of Ebony full brogues in black calf leather from his ready-to-wear collection, but if and when you get an audience with the shoemaker, do yourself a favour and go for custom.

---

. . . AND OUR BEST GROOMING PRODUCTS OF THE YEAR

Hydration

Dr Burgener Switzerland Collagen Intense Face Serum

Dr Burgener’s “intense” face serum is surprisingly light to the touch after a wash and application before bed. In the thick of Asia’s tropical heat and humidity, it provides a milky, second-skin-like feel, thanks to the key ingredients of marine plankton extract and Dr Burgener’s unique Hyalnature formulated complex, made up of three natural hyaluronic acids that help to boost collagen, reduce signs of fine lines, smoothen wrinkles, and lend a glow to your complexion. With regular usage, the active solution hydrates and softens the skin, while the gentle aroma is a bonus.

Lifting

La Mer Lifting Firming Serum

As we look at 40—from the wrong direction—the need, not the luxury, of the Lifting Firming Serum has come to be. Drops dabbed upon the skin can help sculpt the face to restore youthful balance and create a lifted feeling around the upper and lower structural zones. Among the ingredients, the sea kelp, minerals, and vitamins in La Mer’s fermented Miracle Broth base aid cell regeneration, leaving the skin renewed and radiant. With the product tried and tested, we’re comforted to know that while we may not be able to revert from original sin, we can return to original skin.

Eye Care

Guerlain Abeille Royale Double R Renew & Repair Eye Serum

As some of the first visible signs of ageing appear around the eyes, the credit-card swipe on Guerlain’s Abeille Royale eye serum becomes a self-investment we’d like a tax rebate on. Enriched with white-honey concentrate, fragmented hyaluronic acid, and a peptide, this formula can reduce puffiness and dark circles, and illuminate the eye area for a brighter, smoother look and feel. All the efforts of innumerable bees (Guerlain has been working diligently with honey and French royal jellies—hence the recurring bee motif) help to change the epidermis from peasant to posh.

Face Cream

La Prairie Skin Caviar Luxe Cream

La Prairie launched its new Skin Caviar Luxe Cream with an even more evolved “caviar science” formula, building on the foundations of its original 1987 iteration. The secret of its success lies in the key ingredients, which include caviar micro-nutrients to boost the metabolism of the epidermis and maintain firm structure. Legions swear by the velvety cream as it lifts and tightens the skin. For the 2023 version, the jars have been reimagined with recycled and recyclable glass and the colour pays homage to artist Niki de Saint Phalle (who originally inspired that signature shade of cobalt blue).

Brightening

Murad Vita-C Glycolic Serum

Founded by dermatologist Dr Howard Murad, this brand has always taken a scientific approach to skincare. Its fragrance-free Vita-C Glycolic Serum, infused with the antioxidant potential of gold-stabilised vitamin C, offers deep penetration and high absorption to help fade dark spots, reduce pigmentation, and create a smooth, even complexion, while the glycolic acid in the formula helps to remove dead surface cells. A dual-chamber delivery system ensures that the elixir itself faces a lower risk of oxidation. 91 per cent of participants in clinical trials have reported smoother, brighter skin in just two weeks!

Collection

Valmont Essence of Bees

Valmont has been on our radar since the Crème Merveilleuse launch in 2021. Now, there’s the Essence of Bees collection, comprising the Huile Majestueuse face oil, Crème de Masque Majestueuse face cream, and Sérum Majestueux Vos Yeux lifting eye serum, a trio of powerhouse products with regenerative, nutritional properties derived from honey, royal jelly, and propolis, which infuse the skin with a radiant glow, repair damaged cells, and reinforce the epidermis to create a natural barrier against the elements. In the battle against free radicals attacking your skin, Valmont’s Essence of Bees range is the kind of heavy firepower you want in your arsenal of skincare.