A new restaurant in Wan Chai is redefining the relationship between regional Chinese culinary traditions. Shanghai Plus, located in the unassuming Shui On Centre on Harbour Road, seeks to elevate Shanghainese dishes with creative influences from Cantonese cuisine, blending innovation with respect for tradition to showcase Cantonese legacy and authentic Shanghainese flavours in equal measure.
Edmond Ip, the restaurant’s young and dynamic executive chef, stands at the helm of this compelling concept, leading the team at Shanghai Plus. Having spent more than 20 years in the food and beverage industry, the chef admits that, despite his achievements and prestigious position, his start in the culinary field was far from smooth sailing.
“My early years were challenging,” Ip tells Robb Report Hong Kong. “I often arrived late and didn’t take my training seriously. A pivotal moment came when I was one of the few [people] left in the kitchen during a busy shift. A diner requested an additional order, and under pressure, I decided to give it a go.” Rewarded with positive feedback from the customer as well as recognition from his kitchen lead for his bold initiative, Ip credits the event as a turning point for him. “From that day forward, I committed myself to learning and honing my skills. I read countless cooking books, participated in competitions, and built connections with fellow food enthusiasts. Today, I’m proud to be one of the youngest executive chefs specialising in Chinese cuisine in Hong Kong, with a focus on Shanghai dishes while honouring my Cantonese roots.”
At the heart of Ip’s mission is the blending of two distinct regional cuisines, which may, at first glance, appear to have little in common. Ip, however, is determined to put this misconception to rest, explaining that “the exploration of synergies between Cantonese and Shanghainese cuisines is rooted in their shared Chinese heritage while also acknowledging their distinct characteristics. Shanghainese cuisine features rich sauces and a sweet-savoury profile, highlighting the depth of flavours in its sauces and broths. In contrast, Cantonese cuisine focuses on lighter preparations that enhance the freshness and original taste of ingredients. […] Both styles pursue warmth and flavour, which provides a strong foundation for fusion. However, a common challenge we face is the transition away from using MSG, particularly for my culinary team accustomed to traditional Shanghainese practices. Many recipes still rely on it, so we’re continually working to adapt and refine our dishes to create a harmonious blend that respects both cuisines while elevating the dining experience at Shanghai Plus.”
How this notion plays out is embodied in the extensive menu. Dishes with roots in classic recipes are presented as refreshing encounters with novel twists. Shanghainese fried pork ribs benefit from a marinade of Italian balsamic vinegar and Okinawan black sugar infused with aged dried tangerine peel, a familiar Cantonese element; the stewed Cantonese meatball reimagines the traditional Lion’s Head meatball through a local lens, prepared with dried squid, water chestnut, bamboo shoots, shiitake mushrooms, and a braising sauce. Ip’s sautéed crystal tiger prawn retains its alluring aroma through a house-made chilli bean sauce, and a timeless Shanghai braised fish maw soup is paired with yellow eels, black fungus, chrysanthemum, and lemongrass. A double-boiled silken tofu flower soup, made of delicate tofu strands, is served with chicken broth in a whole coconut, demonstrating the artistry of Ip and his team, who have perfected the demanding knife techniques that Huaiyang cuisine is renowned for.
Ip leverages the common foundations between both regional cuisines to foster a “seamless understanding of flavours and techniques.” He cites his stir-fried handmade thick noodles as an example: “I adhere to traditional cooking methods but balance the flavours to be lighter than typical Shanghainese preparations. […] While I respect traditional flavours, I also embrace subtle adjustments to enhance the dishes, ensuring that the essence remains true to both culinary styles.”
Careful consideration is also given to the curation of the beverage programme to ensure a complementary relationship with the food menu. “We focus on special Chinese rice spirits, with Huadiao wine being a standout recommendation,” says Ip. “While many associate Chinese liquor with Moutai, Huadiao is a unique yellow wine traditionally served at state banquets. Its rich flavours pair beautifully with Shanghainese cuisine, enhancing the overall dining experience.” As a result, the signature drinks “harmonise with my dishes, elevating the flavours of both the food and beverages.”
Ip is steadfast in his vision for Shanghai Plus, hoping to build a destination that balances comfort, relaxation, and congenial atmosphere for celebration and connection. Eastern and Western aesthetics are respectfully merged in the design of the restaurant, creating a contemporary space that bring a fresh perspective to the dining experience. Steve Leung Design Group was tapped to envision the elegant cross-cultural interiors, including the creation of four private rooms, which offer an alternative view of the surrounding neighbourhood through expansive curved window panels.
“I want diners to experience Shanghai Plus not as a fusion restaurant, but as a place dedicated to excelling in classic and authentic Shanghai flavours,” Ip affirms. “My goal is to demonstrate that a Cantonese chef can skilfully prepare delicious Shanghainese dishes, creating a space for memorable gatherings and meaningful conversations.”
Shop 201, 2/F, Shui On Centre, 6–8 Harbour Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong
Tel: (+852) 2886 2818
All images courtesy of Shanghai Plus.
