Hong Kong’s highly competitive dining landscape makes a five-year anniversary milestone a celebratory occasion on par with a 25- or even 50-year jubilee. Louise, Julian Royer’s fine French establishment, has firmly tucked its half-decade birthday under its belt, and the renowned chef believes the restaurant’s success is down to its simple but effective concept.
“Louise has always been about serving traditional French cuisine that I love and grew up with,” Royer asserts. “We still retain an emphasis on sourcing for the best produce around the region and showcasing them through delicious heartwarming heritage recipes, reimagined.”
Now, the biggest question is, what’s next?
A change of leadership, for one. Loïc Portalier has been tapped to serve as Louise’s executive chef, working closely with Royer to redevelop the restaurant and its two distinct experiences—fine-dining moments in the main dining room up top, and the more casual sister, La Terrace by Louise, below. Like day and night, upstairs and downstairs ply distinctly different menus, but share the same DNA and philosophy towards French cooking—a tribute to tradition, ingredients, and artistry. Louise proper, as before, will seat guests through tasting menus as well as a newly reimagined à la carte programme; the easy-going La Terrace imparts a live-music-fuelled atmosphere with smaller shared plates that nonetheless add up to a whole meal. Additionally, new weekend lunch dishes with free-flow beverage packages are in the offing.
La Terrace, a new concept launched in this past summer and spearheaded by Portalier, serves as an extension to Louise. Spread across the ground-floor lounge and a verdant alfresco terrace, La Terrace beckons guests with its offerings of refined bites and laid-back drinks.
“I believe today’s diners seek to spend less time in restaurants while enjoying affordable, high-quality food in a more casual and inviting setting [and so] the inspiration behind La Terrace by Louise reflects this desire, preserving the original identity of Louise while providing an alternative that encourages our guests to visit regularly, not just for special occasions,” Portalier explains, highlighting the sophisticated yet relaxed character of the concept.
Portalier is no stranger to Louise; he first worked at the restaurant, and with Royer, in 2019 as sous chef. As to what drew him back after ascending to head-chef position at Claudine in Singapore, another acclaimed Royer project, it all came down to location, location, location.
“I was excited to return to Hong Kong—a city I loved since the day I arrived,” he tells Robb Report Hong Kong. “Louise is truly a unique place; its location is in the heart of the city yet nestled in a tranquil space. […] My goal is to infuse Louise with my fresh energy and distinctive ideas while preserving its essence—its food, atmosphere, and ambience, [and] this includes enhancing La Terrace by Louise and refreshing our offerings.” Having accumulated experience in other Michelin-starred establishments—Restaurant Paul Bocuse, Belon, Epicure at Le Bristol Paris, and Le Clos des Cîmes among them—the chef is ready to show off his chops at Louise.
Portalier expertly weaves the preservation of traditional French cooking traditions with seasonally available ingredients from near and far. From his five-course tasting menu, the Brittany Dover sole stands out as a blend of old meets new, East meets West. Building on the rich and buttery flavour of a classic beurre blanc, the sauce is enhanced with sake and seaweed, and served with boy choy and grilled sweet peas for a nuanced, textural bite. Similarly, the roasted Hong Kong chicken, a take on the quintessential French dish and a Louise staple, uses local poultry as the centrepiece, with a side of Niigata rice and green salad.
“I found it fascinating to explore what Hong Kong has to offer in terms of seasonal products, which we strive to incorporate more fully into our dishes. However, certain ingredients simply cannot be found or replaced here—terroir is irreplaceable and that’s the beauty of it,” says Portalier. His own personal favourite creation, however, is a harmonious reflection of tradition and modernity. “I like the onion tart; its flavours are rich [but] not heavy, beautifully showcasing how humble ingredients can deliver a taste that rivals the finest offerings,” he affirms, nothing that this dish embodies everything he aspires to at Louise. His caramelised onion tart in question uses aromatic Comté cheese and vin jaune for a burst of flavour.
Elsewhere, on the new à la carte option, highlights include the “Fabien D’eneour” Brittany pigeon with confit fennel and onions, a pine-nut crumble, and sauce diable; Mediterranean Sea red gurnard atop a bouillabaisse and tomato-water base dotted with basil oil and topped with grilled vegetables and octopus; sea-urchin toast in brown-butter cream, dashi gel, and citrus; grilled foie gras “dumpling” with a lobster and hibiscus “consommé” and fermented pepper; and the Tulakalum dark chocolate dessert, with caramelised sourdough ice cream.
At Le Terrace, work your way through mimolette “arancini,” bite-sized shrimp toasts topped with pebbles of pike caviar, an elevated croque monsieur with melted St Nectaire cheese and ham, chargrilled octopus in romesco sauce, and a mouth-wateringly fragrant onions agnolotti, soaked in a sauce with a crown of white truffle flakes. Desserts are tasteful creations—a passion-fruit shell holds a velvety, crème-brûléed iteration of the fruit with saffron seasoning.
“We have thoughtfully reviewed our offerings based on clientele’s preferences, enhancing both our food menu and beverage selections. We’ve expanded our wine list and crafted exquisite cocktails, all available at great value for our guests,” Portalier shares, speaking to the revamped menus and the evolution of the restaurant as Louise moves into the next phase of its life.
Royer shares a similar sentiment. “It has been an incredible five years for us,” he says, “but the most rewarding part was witnessing the growth of my incredible team; this year marks the start of a new chapter, with Loïc at the helm of Louise. At the end of the day, my hope for Louise is to bring joy to our guests through honest cooking, quality ingredients, and genuine hospitality.” Looking ahead, he remarks, “In the next five years, I hope to nurture the next generation at Louise—to guide, grow, and empower the team just as I do [at] Odette.”
G/F, JPC, PMQ, 35 Aberdeen Street, Central, Hong Kong
Tel: (+853) 5722 3269
All images courtesy of Louise.
