From journalism to jewellery? Well, talk about a leap… of faith. When the profile of designer Marie Lichtenberg landed on our desk, with images of dazzling jewels of unexpected shape, size, and colour, and a plethora of gold instead of a diaspora of diamonds—well, colour us intrigued. A former editor of one of the most popular fashion magazines in Europe, she pivoted to accessories, unsheathing herself of her past role and creating a line of jewels as unique as she is. Now on display (and sale) in Lane Crawford’s jewellery department, you will find them lined up in glass-encased stands, beaming. It’s so… different.
In fact, it is hard to pinpoint where this jewellery comes from. Sure, the former French editor has a look and accent that is as Parisian as it gets—her maternal roots trace back to Martinique—but the inspiration, reference points, and seed of an idea came into fruition after global travels and worldly influence. When we finally meet in person in the Platinum Suite at Lane Crawford, where the designer is (gold-)chained to the desk with a flurry of appointments with VIP clients and the odd editor, she’s all charm and tinkling accessories. Her strong neck holds up at least half a dozen necklaces of gold and indiscriminate precious stones, enamel, and lacquer. But she holds that neck high, her arms bejewelled with bracelets and rings of gold. She’s the walking embodiment of her eponymous brand.
“I started with pieces because I wanted to do something special for my daughter,” she says, tracing back to the source of her company’s origin story. “I was not supposed to do any jewellery or branding—it was not in the pipeline. I knew I loved jewellery so much, and I have been raised in jewellery because my mother [had been] collecting vintage jewellery as far back as I can remember. And I [have] always been super into jewellery, but I never, never thought that I could design and collect as well. It’s my passion. And so, I started this line.”
At the heart of this designer’s collection lies a relatable story: a necklace gifted by her mother at the tender age of 14. Her fascination with jewellery began young and it hit hard. Hailing from the French Caribbean island of Martinique, her mother’s heirloom, a forçat chain in gold, was not merely a piece of jewellery that Lichtenberg inherited—it was a symbol of freedom, emancipation, and heritage. It ignited a lifelong passion for accessories that mean so much more than their monetary value, one that would eventually evolve into a flourishing brand designed for both aesthetic pleasure and emotional connection.
Lichtenberg—who once held an influential position as the fashion and beauty editor at a prominent magazine—made a bold leap into the volatile business of jewellery. Her decision was catalysed by a romantic encounter on Christmas Eve that prompted a radical re-evaluation of her life’s trajectory. “I needed to do something new,” she recalls, embracing the spirit of carpe diem. “One day, I just left 12 years of journalism behind.”
Eschewing a stable career was not without its fears, but the allure of creating something uniquely her own proved irresistible. Now, as the founder of a brand that champions craftsmanship and individuality, the designer’s ethos is rooted in authenticity. “I can’t sell something that I don’t like,” she asserts, reflecting her philosophy of creating pieces that resonate with her own sense of style. “I make jewellery for me, that I would wear, that I would like. I cannot send something out because the market says it’s on trend.” Her collections are characterised by bold designs and a maximalist aesthetic that defies the minimalism often seen in contemporary jewellery. Her commitment to personal expression is evident in every piece, from intricate gold settings to the vivid hues of gemstones.
Much of her work revolves around gold, particularly in an era when its value has surged beyond that of diamonds; perhaps one should reconsider jewellery as investment. She laughs, “Buy jewellery because you love it—not to put away in a locker or in a vault in some bank!”
Lichtenberg’s fascination with gold and precious metal is complemented by her love for enamelling—a technique that adds depth and vibrancy to her creations. “Gold is my favourite medium,” she explains, highlighting how her choice is influenced by both aesthetic preference and the practicalities of craftsmanship. “I work with the best artisans in the world, in Italy, in Thailand, in India, in France, and it all comes together, the total sum of parts, into something that doesn’t exist in this world—but is of this world.” Her approach to materials reflects a global perspective; this seven-sea synthesis allows her to create pieces that are truly unique. A single item may combine a Dutch-made chain, an Indian clasp, and an Italian pendant—an embodiment of her belief in the beauty of diversity within craftsmanship.
As she navigates the complexities of the luxury market, the designer has discerned significant cultural differences in consumer preferences. In her experience, the American market, for instance, contrasts sharply with the Japanese market in terms of aesthetics and purchasing behaviours. “Every market is remarkable and unique; it has different wants, different desires,” she notes, emphasising the importance of adaptability in her designs; this cultural sensitivity extends to her willingness to embrace feedback, particularly from international clients, ensuring her creations resonate with a broad audience. “But what I won’t do is entertain this idea of making things smaller or less than to make it cheaper. I don’t do cheap.”
In terms of design philosophy, she eschews the notion of a singular muse. “Jewellery is so personal, I can’t make it for one model. My muse, she’s everywhere,” she states, acknowledging the diverse tastes and preferences of her clientele. Lichtenberg understands that each piece of jewellery can hold profound sentimental value, transcending mere aesthetics. For her, the emotional connection to a piece often outweighs its worth.
Her own collection is imbued with personal significance, particularly pieces made by her children. Heirlooms, crafted with love and care, serve as daily reminders of familial bonds and cherished memories. “A piece of paper and plastic that my children made, to me, is priceless. Gold chains that I make, I’ll get it made again. But that age when my little one made me something—I’ll never get that back. I cannot lose that.” Such sentiments underscore her belief that true luxury lies not in ostentation but in the emotional resonance of a piece.
Lichtenberg is also acutely aware of the evolving landscape of the industry, particularly the increasing presence of women in leadership roles. While she acknowledges progress, she emphasises the need for a balanced dialogue between genders in the business realm. “It’s about mixing. Yes, there are more women in charge of jewellery and fashion companies, but not enough, it’s still imbalanced, but it’s better now than it was 20 years ago,” she states, underscoring the importance of collaboration and support across the spectrum.
In her quest for sustainability, she prioritises ethical sourcing and high-quality craftsmanship. “When you’re working at this level, sustainability certifications are a given,” she explains, highlighting her commitment to responsible practices to not only enhance the integrity of her brand but also align with the growing consumer demand for transparency in luxury goods. “To me, that is the baseline for any jewellery brand. Are you sourcing ethically? Is this sustainable? I start there and then work my way up. It is the only way to survive.”
As she looks towards the future, her aspirations remain grounded in creativity and authenticity. “I just want to be able to create,” she reflects, envisioning a continued journey of artistic exploration. With plans to expand her operations and deepen her engagement with clients, she remains committed to the idea that luxury should be a shared experience, marked by personal connections and meaningful interactions.
In a world where trends may come and go, Lichtenberg stands firm in her belief that true luxury is timeless—a celebration of craftsmanship, heritage, and the stories that bind us to the pieces we wear, like the traditional forçat chain the designer inherited from her mother.
All original images by Chris Yau, shot exclusively for Robb Report Hong Kong. Product catalogue shots provided by Lane Crawford.
