The late Harry Winston was famously dubbed the King of Diamonds, and jaw-dropping gemstones remain top of mind when picturing the modern-day jewellery house that bears his name. But the brand also boasts a legacy of using precious materials born from the sea: In 1926, a 30-year-old Winston scored his first major jewellery acquisition when he bought the collection of socialite and philanthropist Arabella Huntington, who was renowned for her love of pearls. Though her personal life was considered scandalous in certain social circles, Huntington’s refined taste was legendary—and the cache of baubles is still regarded as one of the most important jewellery assortments of the 20th century. Pearls, of course, have long played a significant role in high society, from Japan’s imperial courts where they played a role in both adornment and enthronement ceremonies to Marie Antoinette’s heyday when the young Austrian made a fashion and power statement by wearing the precious objects in her hair at the French court.
This year, Harry Winston opulently combined land and sea in a single high-jewellery piece for a modern regal. Part of the Majestic Escapes line—established in 2022, it takes its cues from far-flung locales—the sophisticated necklace is called the Mount Fuji. Inspired by the snow-capped cliffs of Japan’s most famous volcano, it’s set in platinum with a collar covered in 41.5 carats of pear-shaped, marquise, and round brilliant-cut diamonds, from which dangle an array of white South Sea pearls, Akoya pearls, and Keshi pearls in varying sizes. And taking centre stage is a baroque South Sea pearl weighing in at a whopping 28.59 carats. Given that adverse environmental conditions—not to mention voracious pearl collectors across Asia—are contributing to a decrease in oyster populations, examples of this calibre are increasingly rare. And with high-end pearls continuing to rise in value, demand for significant pieces such as this, from one of the great names in jewellery, will only continue to grow.
