Lifestyle
Four Plates at the Regent Hong Kong: Inside The Steak House, Harbourside, The Lobby Lounge, and Lai Ching Heen
A dining destination in a city studded with options, the chefs at The Regent Hong Kong are in fine form across four incredible locations.
BY P.Ramakrishnan  |  June 12, 2023
5 Minute Read
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The buffet station at Harbourside, The Regent Hong Kong.

Following the most extensive transformation in its history, the restaurants and eateries at the Regent Hong Kong are poised to make a magnificent return to Hong Kong’s dining scene.

Over the course of as many weeks, we had the onus to sample four of its iconic restaurants on location: The Steak House, Harbourside, The Lobby Lounge, and the legendary (and, as we go to publish, Michelin-star-studded) Lai Ching Heen. 

It’s a difficult job, but someone had to buckle up and eat the veritable smorgasbord of dining options. Since we launched Robb Report Hong Kong in the grand ballroom of the Regent, so much has happened so quickly at the iconic venue, it’s a race to the finish trying to keep up. But first, we feast. 

The Steak House

Legend has it, the venue was the first steak house to feature a charcoal grill back in the 1980s. 43 years later, till date, the restaurant continues to impress with its curated selection of the finest meats, sizzling seafood, and wine selects from around the globe. With bespoke cuts aged in-house in the maturation fridge, alongside its comprehensive row after row of a salad bar, The Steakhouse is the venue to view postcard views of Hong Kong at its finest, velvet hours.

A high watermark and standard of excellence set by the property itself, be it the meal, the iconic views of the city’s famed skyscrapers, or the sophisticated elegance of the interiors, this is the reason people cross the seven seas. Well, at least the “fragrant harbour.” For the Hong Kong Islander to overcome the legendary laze—to cross the harbour for a meal—it had better be worth the tunnel traffic. Well, ladies and gents, the plating alone is reason to arrive in style. 

“In order to offer our guests the best quality and full traceability, we have sourced the finest meat and cuts,” says Michel Chertouh, Regent Hong Kong’s managing director. “Partnering with bespoke farms and breeders around the world (El Capricho by Jose Gordon in Spain, Toriyama in Japan, Metzger Freres in Uruguay, and Mayura Station Full Blood Wagyu in Australia), they are our eyes on the land—selecting the best animals that are only grass-fed for us. We then choose the top cuts and age them to perfection. Each has a unique story of provenance and terroir and all share our passion for exceptional quality, consistency, and traceability.”

Beef Tenderloin Tartare at The Steakhouse

Walking into the venue feels like a warm embrace, the preamble to the main act. Rich leather and suede furnishings and wood finishes (including charred wood panels using the traditional Japanese wood-burning technique of shou sugi ban) welcome you, and a signature cocktail with a view of Victoria Harbour is a must on arrival. Tear away from the views and give a nod to the works of contemporary Hong Kong artists on display, be it the works of Lee Chun-yi or He Baili’s large canvases. 

The wine cellar faces the open show kitchen, where chefs perform culinary calisthenics while expertly grilling the premium ingredients at that famed charcoal grill. Far from the madding crowd, there are of course two private VIP rooms for an intimate setting and meal. And the larger of the two, with an intimate fireplace and its very own exclusive bar? Well, now—consider my bow tie adjusted.

Harbourside

As the name suggests, placed at the edge of Victoria Harbour, guests can enjoy one of the best views in Hong Kong over decadent lunch and dinner buffets. Many a restaurant critic bemoans the concept of a buffet, where the largess of options overtakes the quality of the meal. Au contraire—the culinary team has set up stations dedicated to their respective menu and oeuvre, be it pan-Asian, Western, Indian, or Chinese dishes. Each station aspires to be better than their neighbour, to find elevated dining and quality dishes for a feast like no other. The smorgasbord of options can leave you in a tizzy; there’s so much to cherry-pick in this orchard.

“At Harbourside, the focus is on freshness, abundance, and quality, led by carefully considered sourcing initiatives that include homegrown collaborations and locally sourced and homemade products,” says head chef Nicholas Chan. “With our international local market concept, we delve deeper into the true essence of each cuisine, from provenance and heritage to preparation.”

The meals aren’t sitting in vain, hoping for customers to choose them; the dishes are prepared à la minute with the highest quality of ingredients. An ingredient list that changes with the season, every visit so far has held pleasant surprises. 

What we found on experience was the anticipatory queue to the seafood section, offering delicacies such as king crab legs, Hokkaido scallops, Japanese steamed abalone, fresh red crab, fresh lobster, sea urchin, tiger prawns, salmon roe, and a large selection of sashimi, nigiri, and maki rolls made on the spot. The seafood platters were reaching dining tables on repeat.

The buffet station at Harbourside

The US Tomahawk steak and the roasted Hokkaido pork belly were personal favourites. And there’s a dessert station that lures you to the fifth sin of gluttony. We were forewarned by the head chef, who came by to say hello, to exercise temperance, and make room for the banana bread pudding and the tiramisu. Did we take heed? No. Did we stuff our faces in the end. Yes.

The Asian selections should not be missed. The warm temptation of the laksa station, the aromatic tandoori lamb racks, poached foie gras with huadiao wine and pumpkin coulis—this is no ordinary fare. No wonder weekends at Harbourside are generally full and require early reservation.

The Lobby Lounge

With floor to high-ceiling glass windowpanes letting the elements shine in, the ambience transforms throughout the day, as does the drinking and dining menu at The Lobby Lounge. In the early hours, for the weary traveller, the homemade breakfast classics, served with freshly ground, single-origin coffee roasted by The Coffee Academïcs, is stellar. From midday until 6 pm, afternoon tea with a sun-kissed view is the gold standard, with indulgent add-ons such as Bellinis, Brut Duval Leroy Femme de Champagne, and Kaviari Kristal caviar.

“Our afternoon tea is a very classic one, with a selection of homemade sandwiches, cakes, and madeleines, served with homemade clotted cream and rosemary jam,” says executive pastry chef Andy Yeung. “We also use high-quality ingredients in baking including luxury French butter Beillevaire in our madeleines. We always source fresh produce that is in season; for example, strawberries from Hokkaido.”

Afternoon tea set at The Lobby Lounge

Sunset cocktails are a simple pleasure. What we liked most about the intriguing selection of wines and champagne was the variety of selected small houses and winemakers in the mix, not just the bold-type bottles you’ll find anywhere and everywhere. There’s such thought gone into the curation; find a new noble chapter to add to your wine library. 

And finally, as the sun fully sets on the horizon, indulge in the Regent dessert collection, a dozen options from the chef in an ever-morphing menu. Chef’s kiss for the pure decadent indulgence of it all.

Lai Ching Heen

Just as we were wrapping up our Regent round-up, the Michelin Guide Hong Kong and Macau 2023 awarded the hotel’s Cantonese restaurant, Lai Ching Heen—formerly Yan Toh Heen, which was formerly Lai Ching Heen—with two Michelin stars. We need to check the books; this might be a city record as it marks the 14th consecutive year that the restaurant is recognised with the coveted accolade. 

Despite a comprehensive menu, we urge you to try Chef Lau’s signature menu, as Lai Ching Heen’s executive chef Lau Yiu-fai and head chef Cheng Man-sang have crafted a stellar list to a showcase of the art of refined Cantonese cuisine with a selection of Chinese delicacies. 

Double-boiled fish maw and sea cucumber, simmered lobster in supreme broth, and braised 28-head whole abalone in oyster jus are highlights on the menu. The bespoke eight-course culinary journey also features classic dishes such as golden stuffed crab shell with crabmeat and wok-fried Wagyu with termite mushroom served in a hot stone.

The elegant jade-inspired dining room is the perfect setting for Chef Lau’s signature menu, as he personally presents his creations along with a tea sommelier’s bespoke pairing from a curated list of distinctive tea leaves. 

Chilled Mango Cream with Sago and Pomelo at Lai Ching Heen

Historically, the location and edifice holding up the Regent brand mean so much to the people of Hong Kong. It is a venue with a storied history, where celebrations of note have occurred, and enduring relationships have been built over a span of four decades. As much as we love a nostalgic trip down memory lane, Chertouh prefers to not look back, but forge ahead, “Innovation is the best way to carry on the Regent Hong Kong’s original spirit. From its opening in 1980, the hotel was a pioneer in terms of service and offerings and set the standard for hotels to come.” 

And what does that future hold? That will be unveiled later in the year with the return of Nobu, a deliciously decadent new destination bar, the Regent Club, and the highly anticipated Regent Spa & Wellness centre. “Regent Hong Kong has always looked to the future, and so do its restaurants,” says Chertouh, signing off.

All four of Regent Hong Kong’s iconic restaurants are now open for reservations.