Acclaimed Hong Kong bartenders Jay Khan and Ajit Gurung have a welcome challenge on their hands before the official launch of The Savory Project, a new bar teetering near the edge of Staunton Street: how to rise beyond their multi-accolade-filled Coa. That little square space in the basement of Wah Shin House is so beloved by the industry, let alone its prolific customer base, that it won first place on Asia’s 50 Best Bars twice—in succession.
To separate the previous merch and state, the menu, the overall look, the ambiance, and everything else at The Savory Project, right down to the ingredients, are very different indeed. Peruse the list and perch your eyebrow in bewilderment. As the name indicates, there’s a characteristic flavour profile to the curated menu by the minds that bring you drinks christened Thai Beef Salad, Peppercorn, Garden to Glass, and Teriyaki. It’s so distinct that, at first glance, the whole thing looks like a menu—a dining menu.
The ingredients in the fine print read: shiitake mushrooms, Japanese white soy sauce, charred corn husks, cumin, peppers, beef, peanuts, leeks, tomatoes, coconuts, and chilli. But these are surely ingredients for Thai dishes or Japanese omakase meals—not meant to be poured into an ice-brimming glass, but seared over a flame? Can I switch to the drinks menu, please?
The new venue—we at Robb Report Hong Kong were there for a first look when the paint hadn’t fully dried nor the shutters fully opened—celebrates the savoury flavour profile to a tee. Ingredients with umami notes and nuanced earthiness are granulated into the beverages. Carefully dialling back sugary and fruity so replete in cocktail menus studded around Hong Kong (heck, The Savory Project’s own neighbours up, down, across, and above serve as much), Khan and Gurung have delved into the kitchens and brought in meat, fungi, and more to create cocktails that are richly flavoured and have a palatable complexity uncommon in bars.
“We’re thrilled to be at the forefront of the next chapter in cocktail culture,” says Khan. “Savoury flavours are gaining in popularity as people crave drinks that are less sweet and more intricate.”
“We noticed a growing demand amongst our guests for savoury drinks, but not having the words to describe what it was they liked,” says the ever-affable Gurung. “Our aim is to add a fresh dimension to Hong Kong’s thriving cocktail scene by expanding the range of savoury cocktails beyond the usual dirty martini and Bloody Mary. We wanted to satisfy our guests’ curiosity and introduce them to an intriguing selection of cocktail flavours, while continuing to foster their interest in this exciting and ever-evolving category.”
What’s also a novel twist is the menu’s even split under the titles “Hedonism” (alcoholic beverages of note) and “Temperance,” where you find meticulously crafted non-alcoholic drinks, “reflecting another shift in the industry, and in the personal lives of its founders, towards more restraint with alcohol consumption,” as per the official announcement for the new bar opening.
The Savory Project is obviously long overdue. Khan, named Asia’s Best Bartender at the 2020 Asia’s 50 Best Bars awards, and the team at Coa found their place in the record books when Coa became only the second bar to be crowned the Best Bar in Asia for two consecutive years. Coa is also one of only eight bars in Asia honoured on the 2022 World’s 50 Best Bars list, so expectations are sky-high.
As the lines continue to snake around Coa, a modest space almost always filled to frustrating capacity, fans of the duo can now look forward to a new spot to whet their appetites and wet their lips. Design firm Brash Atelier drew inspiration from natural elements to create an earthy oasis for those looking to quench their thirst. Wood, stone, metal, and range of textures create an inviting space. The hexagonal bar barely acts as a barrier between barkeep and customer, but that’s an intentional design ploy, says Khan: “A bar is supposed to be a place where you engage, have fun, and get close to people. We wanted to create that same dynamic between guest and staff so they feel like part of the fabric of the place.”
“We kept our bar small so that we can talk to guests, engage with them, and have them try new things,” he continues, explaining The Savory Project’s design. Gurung adds, “We want to create a feeling similar to being at a friend’s well-appointed home bar. We are even altering traditional service dynamic so the experience is less transactional and more enjoyable.”
Well, cheers to that.
4 Staunton Street, Soho, Central, Hong Kong
All images courtesy of The Savory Project.
