Lifestyle
Chao Shang Chao’s Chef Cheung Yat-fung on Chinese Culinary Philosophy, Future Aspirations, and Stepping Up to Meet Every Challenge
Michelin-star-studded chef Cheung Yat-fung is bringing his culinary arts from Beijing for this year’s highly anticipated MGM x RR1HK Culinary Masters Macau 2025.
BY Robb Report Hong Kong  |  May 19, 2025
9 Minute Read
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This story is part of a series of features covering MGM x RR1HK Culinary Masters Macau 2025, hosted at MGM COTAI in Macau on 7–8 June 2025.

A distinguished culinary maestro hailing from our own shores, Cheung Yat-fung currently spearheads the famed Chao Shang Chao (Chaoyang) restaurant in Beijing. (You know, the one with not one, but three coveted Michelin stars.) As the executive chef with an unwavering passion for Chinese culinary arts, Cheung adeptly showcases innovative techniques and flavours through meticulously crafted menus that pay homage to the richness and sophistication of his heritage. Adding him to the gilded roster of MGM x RR1HK Culinary Masters Macau 2025 proved to be the easiest decision by the powers that be.

Cheung’s professional journey began in his native city, but it was under the tutelage of master chef Tsang Chiu-king—the current culinary director of Ming Court Wanchai—that his career truly flourished. Tsang imparted not only his exceptional Cantonese culinary skills but also underscored the significance of respecting ingredients and nurturing a spirit of innovation. Inspired by this mentorship, Cheung retains a commitment to cultivating young talent, ensuring the preservation and evolution of Chinese gastronomic traditions.

Chao Shang Chao restaurant in Beijing.

His early accolades include a Gold Medal at the 2015 Chinese Cuisine World Championship, followed by a turn as the executive chef at the renowned Ji Pin Court in Shanghai, where he garnered a Michelin star in 2019, followed by two stars in the subsequent years. Since assuming leadership at Chao Shang Chao (Chaoyang) in 2020, Cheung has further cemented his remarkable reputation, achieving a two-Michelin-star recognition for the restaurant in 2022 and 2023, and further elevating the restaurant to three-star status in 2024 and 2025. 

Cheung’s influence is further evidenced by his receiving Three Knives at the 2024 Best Chef Awards just a few months ago. Although not a native of Chaozhou, he embraces the region’s culinary traditions, utilising his creativity and expertise to craft unique delicacies that elevate Chinese cuisine on the global stage. His journey through the intricate world of time-honoured dishes reveals a profound commitment to both heritage and creativity that has impressed even the most severe critic at the haloed halls of the Michelin Guide. As we delve into his philosophy, one cannot help but feel that Cheung is not merely a chef, but a custodian of a rich cultural tapestry, the threads of which he holds dearly to his ambitious heart.

As part of the third iteration of the famed MGM x RR1HK Culinary Masters Macau series, Cheung joins an excellent roster of pan-Asian master chefs to put his spin on the theme “Flavours of Harmony: A Culinary Journey Through East Asia.” Speaking to Robb Report Hong Kong ahead of the event, we had much to talk about, and thankfully, he has much to say about traditions, innovation, stepping ahead, and stepping up to meet every challenge.

Before we dive in, we must congratulate you on the Three Knives distinction at the 2024 Best Chef Awards. How did it feel to receive such a prestigious accolade recognising your excellence in modern Chinese cuisine?

I am truly grateful and honoured to receive the prestigious Three Knives award. This accolade not only recognises my personal dedication but also acknowledges the collective effort of my entire team. Modern Chinese cuisine is a realm brimming with innovation and challenges, and being honoured in this field inspires me to continually push boundaries and pursue higher culinary excellence.

What does it mean to you to lead a three-Michelin-star Chinese restaurant in Beijing, especially as a chef from Hong Kong? 

As a Hong Kong chef overseeing a restaurant in Beijing, my role involves blending diverse regional culinary cultures. The challenge lies in preserving the essence of Hong Kong cuisine while adapting to the palates of Beijing and Mainland diners. Beyond the work of an ordinary chef, I must balance maintaining high-end quality with showcasing Hong Kong’s culinary identity, all while navigating evolving ingredient availability and market demands.

How did your foundation under Chef Tsang shape your culinary style and philosophy?

Chef Tsang taught me the refined techniques and profound cultural heritage of traditional Cantonese cuisine. This foundation shaped my culinary style, emphasising that innovation must never overshadow tradition. My cooking philosophy now revolves around honouring the natural flavours of ingredients and mastering time-honoured techniques.  

Cheung Yat-fung.

How do you balance upholding tradition with shaping the future of Chaozhou cuisine? 

To balance preserving tradition and shaping the future of Chaozhou cuisine, I introduce new ingredients and creativity while retaining its classic methods and flavours. Finding harmony between old and new, I first delve into the nuances of traditional dishes before integrating modern elements. For example, I might use traditional steaming, braising, or stir-frying techniques but pair them with innovative seasonings or ingredients, preserving Chaozhou’s essence while offering diners fresh perspectives.

What is the philosophy behind Chao Shang Chao, and how does it reflect your personal culinary vision?

Chao Shang Chao embodies a philosophy of merging tradition with innovation, prioritising fresh, premium ingredients, and showcasing Chaozhou cuisine’s charm through meticulous technique. This reflects my personal pursuit: to let diners experience Chaozhou’s cultural depth and innovative spirit through my dishes.

With the new Chao Shang Chao opening in Shenzhen, how do you plan to maintain the same level of quality and innovation across multiple locations?

For the new Chao Shang Chao in Shenzhen, I will implement a rigorous quality control system, overseeing everything from ingredient sourcing to cooking processes. Regular staff training ensures consistency in skills and philosophy. Additionally, I’ll adapt the menu to Shenzhen’s local market preferences and ingredient availability, maintaining our identity while embracing the new environment.  

The Michelin Guide mentions your new takes on Chaozhou classics, such as braised eel wrapped in lotus leaf. Can you describe your creative process when reimagining these traditional dishes? 

I first study their history and cultural context, then innovate while preserving their soul. For instance, my braised eel wrapped in lotus leaf uses fresh eel with classic braising techniques, enhanced by the lotus leaf’s fragrance for richer flavour and visual appeal. For contemporary classics, I focus on colour harmony and artistic plating, ensuring dishes delight both the palate and the eye.  

What is the inspiration behind your Chao ½ Chef’s Table, and what kind of creative freedom do you give the young chefs involved?

The inspiration behind Chao ½ Chef’s Table is to create a platform for guests to intimately witness the culinary creative process. I grant young chefs creative freedom to experiment, while guiding them to ensure dishes align with the restaurant’s style and quality standards. Encouraging them to explore diverse ingredients and techniques fosters their creativity.  

What do you hope diners experience when they visit Chao Shang Chao or any of your tables?

I hope guests at Chao Shang Chao or any of my tables experience Chaozhou cuisine’s unique allure and our dedication to ingredients and craft. Beyond savouring the food, I want them to appreciate its cultural depth and leave with cherished memories. Through my work and achievements, I aim to convey respect for tradition and passion for innovation. I want people to know Chinese cuisine is not only rooted in history and culture but also thrives through modern evolution, retaining its timeless appeal.  

Since winning the accolades and the Michelin stars, has it added pressure to maintain status quo, or would you like to continue to experiment and expand further?

Since earning Michelin stars, the pressure has grown, but it fuels my drive. I refuse complacency—experimentation and expansion will continue. Innovation is key to sustaining our competitiveness and spreading love for Chaozhou cuisine.  

What did the first initial Michelin recognition mean to you?

My initial Michelin recognition was a tremendous encouragement, solidifying my culinary path. It affirmed my efforts and highlighted the Michelin Guide’s respect for Chinese cuisine, motivating me to elevate its global standing.  

MGM x RR1HK Culinary Masters Macau 2025 brings different chefs from all over the world together in one place for an extraordinary gastronomic exchange. What are you most excited about for the event?

What excites me most about events like Culinary Masters, where chefs worldwide gather, is exposure to diverse styles and philosophies. Through exchange, I learn from other cuisines, share Chaozhou’s uniqueness, and foster cross-cultural fusion and creativity.

What ingredient are you most excited to highlight in your dishes for MGM x RR1HK Culinary Masters Macau 2025?

In my dishes [for Culinary Masters], I’m eager to spotlight Chaozhou’s signature seafood—lobster, abalone, and other ingredients—prized for [their] freshness, flavour, and nutrition. Using traditional Chaozhou techniques, I [will] highlight their natural sweetness while enhancing them with unique seasonings for layered complexity.

How will your contribution to MGM x RR1HK Culinary Masters Macau 2025 harmonise with this year’s event theme? 

This year, my contributions will focus on Chaozhou’s heritage and innovation, aligning with the event’s theme. I’ll infuse contemporary elements, like molecular gastronomy, to reimagine classics. Collaborating with other chefs, I’ll communicate openly to harmonise ideas, avoid stylistic clashes, and curate a vibrant, cohesive feast.

What do you hope diners will take away with them after they experience MGM x RR1HK Culinary Masters Macau 2025?

I hope guests leave the event with deeper appreciation for global cuisines and a renewed passion for food. May they respect the artistry behind diverse cultures and find inspiration to experiment with new dishes and methods in their own kitchens.

And finally, what does luxury mean to you? 

Luxury transcends premium ingredients and elegant settings—it’s about devotion to craft and respect for diners. It’s a relentless pursuit of perfection, from sourcing to plating, and an immersive experience where guests savour not just food, but a unique cultural ambience and service ethos.

For more delicious details, visit rr1hongkong.com/culinary-masters-2025.