Welcome to Checking In, a review series in which our editors and contributors rate the best luxury hotels based on a rigorous—and occasionally tongue-in-cheek—10-point system: Each question answered “yes” gets one point. Will room service bring you caviar? Does your suite have its own butler? Does the bathroom have a bidet? Find out below.
Describe the hotel in three words: Immaculate nature retreat.
What’s the deal?
Nestled in the verdant regency of Tabanan in the southwest of Bali, abutting rice paddies and lush jungle growth, Nirjhara is a luxurious boutique retreat set on two hectares of tropical land. Channelling a blend of Balinese traditions, refined modern hospitality, and unspoilt natural landscapes, Nirjhara is the sort of place that exudes tranquillity and relaxation.
First-timers to Bali unfamiliar with the geography of the island might imagine Nirjhara’s location in Tabanan a bit too off-the-beaten-path for back-to-back sightseeing tours of major island landmarks and attractions, but the property balances privacy and peaceful surroundings with easy access to popular neighbourhoods like Canggu, Seminyak, and Ubud.
Nirjhara—Sanskrit for “waterfall” in homage to its own on-property cascade—comprises 25 suites and villas, with the modernist Canopy Suite being a unique option among the room categories as it is designed to evoke treehouse living and comes with its own private rooftop deck. Indonesian craftsmanship and Balinese cultural elements form an important part of the tasteful decoration and interiors—think earth-inspired colour palettes, woven furniture, coconut panelling details, traditional sirap roofs, and bespoke art showcasing local talent. (Nirjhara’s on-site boutique also features wares for sale to support Indonesian artisans.)
Nirjhara is also a strong proponent of sustainable practices, its core pillars focused on giving back to the community and land, and limiting its impact on the environment, catering to discerning travellers who prioritise eco-conscious accommodations. In order to reduce its footprint, the property installed a water purification system and bottling plant, eliminates single-use plastic from the villas, sources produce locally or from its own organic garden, and uses upcycled and reclaimed materials in its building construction, as well as eco-friendly heat pumps and solar water heaters. It even conducted a sun study to identify the optimal orientation and capacity for the air-conditioning units in each villa, coupled with superior thermal insulation technology to minimise energy consumption. Meanwhile, various outreach and upskilling programmes help to support neighbouring communities.
The best room?
For the absolute best that Nirjhara has to offer, spring for the two-bedroom Residence. Highly private, spacious at 600 square metres, and spanning two levels, this is less of a suite in the traditional sense and more of a home, with a pair of en-suite bedrooms, freestanding bathtubs, indoor rain showers, and a 14-metre infinity-edge pool with sunbeds and a cabana. Living and dining areas are separate and tastefully furnished with custom-made artisanal pieces and Indonesian art, and the entire space can sleep up to four adults and two children.
Does the hotel have a standout perk?
Nirjhara not only offers excellence on land—with a robust catalogue of experiences ranging from rice-terrace exploration, horseback riding on a black-sand beach, visits to towering waterfalls, and surfing to cycling to nearby Tanah Lot, one of several temples considered to be among the most important on the island—but its private Vela sailing yacht also takes guests on thrilling adventures on the high seas, continuing the resort’s superb hospitality on water. Available for private charters, the American-designed, Indonesian-built boat is made of ironwood and teak, with an imposing silhouette that blends local tradition and modernity. Its six staterooms are luxuriously dressed in Italian textiles, sustainable wood furnishings, Ubud-made terracotta tiles, and marble details. Bespoke itineraries are tailored to guest preferences and can include activities like diving in the Golden Coral Triangle, excursions to Komodo National Park to see Komodo dragons, exploring the Alor and Wakatobi coves, cruising around the imposing rock formations of the Raja Ampat islands, and more.
Did they greet you by name at check-in?
Not only at check-in—we were met at I Gusti Ngurah Rai International Airport in Denpasar by an affable driver who greeted us by name and promptly whisked us off to Nirjhara by private car transfer. Communications between the teams worked seamlessly, and we were warmly welcomed upon arrival by a delegate of front-of-house staff members.
Was a welcome drink ready and waiting when you arrived?
Homemade roselle lemonades and cooling towels appeared out of thin air while we relished an unhurried check-in process in the open-air lobby, lulled by the dulcet sounds of flowing water and the soft rustle of swaying palms—just what the doctor ordered for a weekend of rest and relaxation. As part of the arrival ritual, guests are presented with a choice of three scents for their room and toiletries: Signature, Invigorate, and Unwind. Pick your favourite.
Private butler for every room?
Nirjhara does not offer private butler services, but with a property this boutique, the staff-to-guest ratio is expectedly high, so there is always a friendly face about to seek assistance from.
Is the sheet thread count higher than 300?
It’s an even 300, and the bed linens are crafted from 100 per cent cotton.
Is there a heated floor in the bathroom? What about a bidet?
No—heated floors are not the norm in Southeast Asia, and there is no need for them at Nirjhara, either, as Bali is blessed with a balmy climate year-round and average temperatures of 28 degrees Celsius. However, the bathrooms do come with bidets.
Are the toiletries full-sized?
Yes—the shampoo, conditioner, and body wash are full-sized and Nirjhara-branded, stored in robust ceramic vessels and scented according to your choice. Bathrooms do come stocked with a small curation of toiletries, but some items are provided upon request as Nirjhara pursues an eco-conscious model and aims to minimise plastic waste from its rooms.
Is there a private pool for the room’s exclusive use? How are the spa and gym?
Yes, if you book the River Pool Pavilion, Jungle Pool Pavilion, Two-Bedroom Pool Villa, Two-Bedroom Jungle Pool Villa, or the Residence, which will come with either a private plunge pool or lap pool of modest size. Otherwise, there is a large, shared pool on property, with sun loungers, cabanas, and a direct view of Nirjhara’s namesake waterfall.
Nirjhara’s spa, the Retreat, is a small, intimate sanctuary with four treatment rooms, including one for couples, so honeymooners can embark on a spiritual wellness journey together—the 140-minute temple blessing ceremony, inclusive of a tea service, holy water blessing performed by a Hindu priest, foot bath and flower bath rituals, and Balinese massage, is one such harmonious way to celebrate life’s milestones.
On the spa menu, the wellness and beauty treatments are informed by ancient remedies and local culture. Sacred holidays and practices such as the annual Melasti purification ceremony and Nyepi, the Day of Silence and Balinese New Year, are honoured in comprehensive, rejuvenating healing treatments, encompassing body scrubs, facials, deep-tissue massages, warm compresses, foot reflexology, Reiki healing techniques, and sound healing.
Adjacent to the spa, there is a 24-hour fitness centre equipped with free weights, cardio machines, and strength equipment, as well as two Finnish saunas. Nirjhara can arrange personal trainers for guests upon request. Near the main pool, overlooking the waterfall, is the outdoor yoga shala, constructed of bamboo and sporting a dramatically curved roof—we cannot think of a better place to practice our sun salutations and guided meditation.
Is the restaurant worth its salt?
Yes. Ambu, the only restaurant at Nirjhara, covers breakfast, lunch, dinner, and in-room dining. In fact, the food proved to be one of the highlights of the stay—it was that good.
Breakfast can be had à la carte, with Western and Eastern selections on the menu, plus the quintessential Bali smoothie bowl, but we recommend the plentiful, Indonesian-cuisine-led Nusantara Breakfast Board, serving as a taster to traditional dishes from the archipelago. Nasi goreng wok-fried rice, egg balado in sambal sauce, jagung goreng corn fritters, and bubur ketan hitam black-rice porridge with coconut milk are a few of the dishes from the set.
By day and night, the restaurant covers a wide gamut of cuisines and dishes—think Sundanese karedok salad, ayam Taliwang grilled chicken, tuna sambal matah tataki, twice-cooked beef cheek with roasted garlic mashed potatoes, mie goreng Jawa wok-fried noodles, Balinese pork ribs, butternut squash velouté, beef rendang croquettes, and our personal favourite, the lumpia semarang Peranakan-style fried spring rolls. Don’t miss the pisang goreng banana fritters with salted caramel. Menus are built around sustainably sourced produce from trusted Bali, Java, and Lombok suppliers and fishermen.
Guests can also avail themselves of Nirjhara’s signature dining experiences; the chefs will create a custom menu unique to you based on your preferences for the occasion you’re celebrating—be it an anniversary, birthday, honeymoon, or just a regular Wednesday night.
Do you want to spend Friday night in the lobby bar?
Nirjhara has no lobby bar, per se, but a round or two of Saturday sundowners by a bonfire overlooking the verdant landscape surrounding the property is hard to beat. Kick up your feet and enjoy the pastel-coloured sunset at the Lounge with a cocktail in hand. Otherwise, head back to Ambu, where you can clink glasses in view of the on-site waterfall.
Would you buy the hotel if you could?
It is impossible to say no. Forget the dense urbanity and countless beach clubs of Kuta, Seminyak, and Canggu, and skip the sightseeing crowds that flock to Ubud in droves; travellers in search of the ultimate jungle retreat, swaddled by rice paddies, lush forests, and natural waterways, with ready access to a wealth of natural, spiritual, and cultural attractions, may well find the answer to their quest at Nirjhara in the hills of Tabanan.
Score: 9
What Our Score Means:
1–3: Fire your travel agent if they suggest you stay here.
4–6: Solid if you’re in a pinch—but only if you’re in a pinch.
7–8: Very good. We’d stay here again and recommend it without qualms.
9–10: Forget booking a week. When can we move in permanently?
All images courtesy of Nirjhara.
