As the temperature rises and the humidity hits, wearing a three-piece suit for work or leisure is no longer a palatable option. It’s the time to embrace that working contradiction: smart-casual. Let it leap into the lingua franca once again; as the fashion overlords will have it, casual but refined elegance seems to be the chant of the season. Light colours (soft greys, mocha, and baby pink), light fabrics (linen, cotton, and light cashmere) are the long and short of what’s on trend in menswear—and why even the esteemed Louis Vuitton has formal designer shorts in the offing. Here are a few fine examples from the leaders of good taste.
Stefano Ricci
If you’ve ever wondered what to wear on the sundeck of Jeff Bezos’s yacht, wonder no more—Stefano Ricci has a full look ready and waiting for you from its spring-summer 2024 collection. Pick up a pair of Conquest sunglasses, the suede-and-calfskin-leather slip-on shoes (as comfortable as they are elegant), the handmade Susa shirts, and the ostensibly versatile linen Bermuda shorts with the brand’s embroidered logo. You can shop the entire look at the new Stefano Ricci flagship store in Hong Kong (more on that in Style).
Ralph Lauren
Florals for spring? Groundbreaking. You know and love the meme—and that exacting delivery by Meryl Streep—and in the wake of the Met Gala 2024 and its floral abundance, clearly flora and fauna are going to be the rage as a fashion motif this season.
In the latest catalogue of Ralph Lauren, this Kent hand-tailored tropical floral silk sport coat popped up in our eyeline a few weeks ago and we had to put a pin on it for a follow-up. A distinct look from the Purple Label pre-spring 2024 collection, paired with black or neutral bottoms, one can really stand out in a garden state. As expected from the purple pleasures of the brand’s menswear collection, the detailing, tailoring, and cut is exquisite.
Tom Ford
Following the departure from his eponymous brand, Tom Ford’s approval of designer Peter Hawkings, his right-hand man, to lead the new collection into the year has been stated on record. After all, Hawkings worked with Ford for 25 years, had been senior vice president of Tom Ford menswear, and is all too familiar with the code and exacting dictate of dressing that propelled the brand for decades. As the latest collection wheels into local stores, we’ve tapped on the lapels of this ice-cool look: yarn dyed Mikado Atticus trousers in aqua, made of silk and wool. Paired with printed crocodile-leather Bailey Chelsea boots and topped with a sheer silk polo and pony-hair jean jacket, this has the casual sexiness and meticulous quality that one expects from the brand. Ford, both man and brand, has always erred on the side of sensuality, and this look has a frosty coolness that’s oh-so-lush.
Dunhill
Much ink has been spilt about the renaissance of Dunhill since Simon Holloway took over—and pulled off a phenomenal, near-universally acclaimed show at London Fashion Week this past February—but we are of the belief that the brand has always been a class apart, quietly simmering while others where shouting. What to pick from the line? Definitely the raised-line cashmere crewneck jumper; with matching cotton-silk single-pleat chinos in camel, this number is soft as can be, perfect for sub-zero offices in the summertime.
Gucci
Labelled as the first trainers from designer Sabato De Sarno for the house of Gucci, the Gucci Re-Web has been trending among the young and the restless. With this everyday silhouette and the notable Gucci colour code and stripe, it’s an easy option to slide into.
Dior
Kim Jones has employed “gravity leather” in the latest collection of accessories with intriguing effect; the emblematic Dior oblique is palpable in leather goods, the result of a unique embossing technique that “delicately marks the leather thanks to the action of gravity.” Hence the name: Dior gravity. An Einstein moment in fashion, the accessories come in shades of beige, black, and khaki, but the grained texture and supple effect endures in all. Be it in the messenger bags or the weekender model, the subtle graphics make for a modern and elegant accessory that’s suitable for all seasons.
Louis Vuitton
In a matter of as many weeks, we have seen three celebrities styled in Louis Vuitton’s Damier houndstooth jacket as they hit the red carpet. From Pharrell Williams’s latest collection, the bejewelled buttons (one of the designer’s signatures) stand out in a flash; paired with shorts of the same material and print, there’s plenty of legroom to breathe. Plucked from the catwalk of the spring-summer 2024 show, the tailored jacket with a cropped silhouette and standing officer collar makes for a distinguished look.
Loro Piana
A pink turtleneck for summer? Bear with us—the pale baby-rose superlight cashmere turtleneck is styled in a classic cut and familiar silhouette. As with everything concerning the famed Italian brand, it’s all about the material, a modus operandi built on enviable and exquisite fabrication alone. Here, the rare, super-soft baby cashmere is obtained solely from the underfleece of Hircus goat kids, crafted using the company’s signature techniques for lightweight softness, and the piece is simply perfect for a leisurely look. (However, the instruction manual to care for the garment is longer than most features we pen.)
Givenchy
It’s the almost laser-sharp cuts without any superfluous appliques and additions that makes this all-black look stand out. Matthew M. Williams at Givenchy provides wearable clothes in high fashion (usually a contradiction of terms) with glorious garments “that you could easily wear in the real world without looking like a luxury victim,” wrote a fashion critic. Look for the precision-cut sleeveless jumpsuits and evening suits with no side seams. In the thick of viscous nights, you’ll beg for the mercy of “less is more” menswear.
Hermès
When one looks for literature on the latest men’s collection in store at impeccable Hermès, we get semi-poetic gems like, “A collection soft and sweet as a summer breeze, stirred by a tender strength. Clothing as architecture. The look is constructed with the weightlessness of daylight, of openwork.” All that translates into gossamer singlets, transparent shirts, and netting details, which make up many of the standout pieces from the SS24 line—clearly, the collection embraces beach culture to the max. For us, it was the Effet Crayonne short-sleeve shirt, which comes in a variety of muted colours, that did the trick. Light and indeed “breezy,” we also love that it allows men the right to bare arms.
Images courtesy of the respective brands unless otherwise indicated.