Geneva is set to welcome a host of dazzling guests this May.

At the first jewellery auction to be held at Hotel President in Geneva, a new venue selected by auction house Phillips, the debut has to be appropriate stunning. Leading the sale is a trifecta of significant stones: a rare fancy red diamond weighing 1.56 carats, a magnificent fancy vivid pink diamond ring of 6.21 carats, and jaw-dropping Colombian emerald bearing a whopping 280.8 carats. How far will the hammer fall is uncertain, and the estimates are in multiple figures, but there’s so much more in the 100-plus lots that are worthy of inspection. 

“As our Jewels department experiences continued growth and expansion, we are proud to unveil these exquisite highlights in anticipation of our second Jewels auction in Geneva this May,” Benoît Repellin, worldwide head of jewellery at Phillips, shared in a statement.

Rifle through the catalogue to find the famed, the familiar, and the jewellery houses of note shimmering on the pages, among them Cartier, JAR, Sterlé, Suzanne Belperron, and Van Cleef & Arpels. As relevant today as they were a century ago—and more so in some cases—some of the limited-edition archival pieces are so rare in the market that collectors from around the world are expected to collate in Switzerland this May for a closer look. Several statement pieces in the hands of private collectors, often staying within the family for generations, are finally up for grabs. Robb Report Hong Kong has zoned in on a selection of sensational lots of great provenance, historical reference, celebrity, and rarity from the catalogue for a teaser of what will be on offer at the Geneva Jewels Auction: Two. 

One of the star lots of the occasion, the “Amazon Queen,” a 280.8-carat Colombian emerald, is said by Phillips to be one of the largest gem-quality emeralds to hit the auction block. For that reason alone, it is expected to fetch up to US$2.6 million (HK$20.3 million).

A chic pair of sapphire and emerald ear clips from Suzanne Belperron is estimated to fetch up to US$50,000 (HK$391,495). Observers with a keen eye will note that this elegant accessory is not signed; Belperron, born at the turn of the century in France, once famously said, “Mon style est ma signature.” (“My style is my signature.”)

A pair of gold and diamond clip brooches from Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1940, may close at up to US$30,000 (HK$234,900). Made nearly 90 years ago, the classic bejewelled accessories by the historic maison stand the test of time, proving again and again what worthy investments the gorgeous pieces from the acclaimed jewellery house are.

Ah, there she rests on an onyx stand: Cartier’s famed Panthère motif in repose is festooned with diamonds and rubies, a masterful result of exquisite craftsmanship. As befitting such a regal accessory, this necklace is expected fetch up to US$150,000 (HK$1.1 million).

A 1960s throwback, the Sterlé diamond brooch is a bejewelled flower petal looking for a shoulder to pin on, realised in an elegant shape that is so simple yet so stunning. Interested parties can expect this piece to go for up to US$90,000 (HK$704,685).

An emerald and diamond pendant that can easily morph into a brooch, this Harry Winston rarity, an artistic gem from the archives, could fetch US$240,000 (HK$1.8 million).

Sapphire has been an intrinsic part of crown jewels and these three sets have an air of regal imprimatur. A Harry Winston sapphire and diamond necklace, a pair of sapphire and diamond earrings of 15.04 and 13.03 carats, and a pair of Kashmir sapphire and diamond ear clips weighing 2.48 and 2.68 carats are estimated to fetch up to US$260,000 (HK$2 million), US$240,000 (HK$1.8 million), and US$100,000 (HK$783,010), respectively.

For those seeking something new, something pink, and something blue, the a diamond, spinel, and sapphire Fleur de Magnolia brooch from Maison Alix Dumas stands out from Symbols, Colour and Form, a spring selling exhibition of jewels made by contemporary designers to complement the Geneva Jewels Auction: Two. Exhibiting obvious influences of flora and fauna, the sculptural designs secured Dumas, the designer from Brittany, an award in the “Best in Haute Couture” category at the Couture Design Awards in 2023. 

All this and so much more is ripe for the picking this coming auction. 

The Geneva Jewels Auction: Two

Auction Viewing: 8–13 May 2024

Auction: 13 May 2024

Hotel President, Quai Wilson 47, 1201 Geneva, Switzerland

All images courtesy of Phillips.