Reaching Rome or Venice out of Europe’s high summer can be as heavenly as going either place in July or August is often as near to hell as is possible on Earth. Stories abound of getting near to the Trevi Fountain in the company of thousands of summer tourists, or the impossibility of taking any photos of gondolas because half of Europe seems to be trying to do the same thing.
Add to this recipe two other ingredients: climate change, or at lease global warming, has meant soaring sauna-like summer temperatures throughout southern Europe. Lastly, luxury increasingly requires nature—and space. You are more likely to see wildflowers and be able to take long solitary walks in winter, and this is not a new phenomenon. “In the middle of the 19th century, the French Riviera was a winter destination, then it shifted between the wars to a summer hangout,” says amateur historian and GM of Hôtel Martinez in Cannes, Michel Cottray. He is so passionate about this region of the Riviera that he bought a house here long before moving here for work two years ago.
The northern Mediterranean is ready once again to be year-round. Windstar, the ultra-luxury yacht company owned by billionaire entrepreneur Philip Anschutz—AEG, Coachella, the Los Angeles Lakers, and so on—is already in on the act. Windstar’s just-refurbished 310-passenger Star Legend is well into a season plying between Barcelona and Rome, with week-long sailings through end of March. Its festive season cruise started off with midnight mass at the Vatican and culminated in ringing in the new year by Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia.
Honestly, some of the best hotels in Europe, if not the world, are here, and open year-round. In Barcelona, Hotel Arts, a Ritz-Carlton hotel, dominates the beach. To tap into the fashion world, choose Mandarin Oriental Barcelona, entered via a sloping catwalk that honestly makes one feel like a supermodel.
In Cannes, it’s essential to be on La Croisette, with only that between you and the ocean. The newly reopened Carlton, now a Regent hotel with Tristan Auer interiors, has winter-long outdoor skating. Two blocks east, the 1929-vintage Hôtel Martinez, part of Hyatt’s Unbound Collection, is Pierre-Yves Rochon doing seductive pastels. Both hotels also attract the stars of today, even away from the film festival. Whichever, choose an ocean-facing room and be prepared for some of the most sensational and Instagrammable buffet breakfasts in the world. Both also have year-round on-the-sand beach clubs—temperature-controlled, wood dance floors, and super food and music. The Carlton is admittedly five minutes closer to Dior, Gucci, Hermès, and the dozens of other Croisette boutiques. But in May, Palm Beach, handy for the Martinez, does a Lazarus-like reappearance. As well as its legendary casino, expect a new invitation-only exclusive global members’ club, and restaurants and designer boutiques galore.
Talking of boutiques, there are 53 designer names within a stone’s throw of Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo, says the iconic hotel’s GM, Olivier Thomas. He cites some of the principality’s other year-round attractions—fine dining, memorable gaming, and shows at the adjacent Casino de Monte-Carlo, and, typically, 300 days of sunshine a year. Add to this motor-racing: the all-electric Monaco E-Prix, on 27 April 2024, will be followed by the classic car Historic Grand Prix de Monaco on 10–12 May 2024 and Formula 1 Grand Prix de Monaco on 23–26 May 2024.
In Rome, Six Senses, a conversion of Palazzo Salviati Cesi Mellini, opened on 16 March 2023 and, led by GM Francesca Totti, it’s getting rave reviews for its 60-minute Roman bathing circuit, with calidarium, tepidarium, and frigidarium. Among the many significant Rome hotels coming up within the next two years are Bulgari, Corinthia, and Orient-Express, all conversions of historic buildings. There will also be an Orient-Express in Venice. Both are masterminded by Accor’s partner Paolo Barletta, also doing the forthcoming Dolce Vita train. But then, Venice is also expecting Four Seasons, a reflag of the historic Danieli, evolved from the late 14th-century Palazzo Dandolo. Langham is similarly scheduled, but on an island handy for Murano glassblowers—thoughtfully, Langham will have a mainland club facility where you can wait, any time of the year, for your water-borne transfer home.
Yes, think northern Mediterranean, now, year-round.