A gastronomic powerhouse is making his presence felt at Galaxy Macau this summer.
Miyakawa Maasaki, one of only six sushi masters in Japan to be honoured with three Michelin stars, has landed at Raffles in Macau with his new restaurant, the first outside of his native Japan. Sushi Kissho by Miyakawa distils the essence of traditional Edomae-style sushi into a refined dining ritual, where the meticulous preparation of seasonal ingredients at their peak shapes the sophisticated heart of the intimate experience.
Diners might recognise Miyakawa from Sushi Yoshitake’s Hong Kong outpost, where he had led the restaurant to achieve three Michelin stars in the mid-2010s. He later returned to Hokkaido to set up the equally lauded Sushi Miyakawa, another establishment conferred with three-star status in the 2017 edition of the Michelin Guide Hokkaido. Sushi Shin by Miyakawa in Niseko and at the Mandarin Oriental Tokyo hotel soon followed, as did the acclaim and praise from guests, critics, and press alike.
Now, in Macau, Miyakawa has set yet another stage to further the art of sushi, in a simple, wabi-sabi way that celebrates this delicate Japanese cuisine through a trinity of honouring tradition, taste, and trust between chef and diner. Miyakawa is a soft-spoken conductor—a small smile is perched upon his face throughout the refined omakase dinner as he leads the gastronomic action, deftly slicing through aged otoro tuna, shaping bite-sized pieces of seasoned shari rice, and preparing a delicate nishin herring roll with shiso leaf.
His team is equally composed, each man at his station, well-oiled cogs in a culinary machine to advance the seamless procession of the meal. Executive chefs Satake Hironori and Maeda Norihisa and their cadre of skilled sushi chefs stationed at Kissho, all trained by Miyakawa himself, are positioned across the culinary stage of the open kitchen, demonstrating every step that results in the lengthy, almost 20-course omakase menu, from mochi-pounding to unagi-roasting over a live fire.
A symphony of flavours is the result, beginning with a Hokkaido corn pudding with sea urchin that perfectly captures the essence of the season, followed by appetisers such as tender Shimane black abalone dressed in a rich liver sauce and Nagasaki beltfish, among others. 10 sushi courses follow in efficient succession, from chu-toro medium fatty tuna, delicately prepared kohada gizzard shad, and kuruma-ebi prawn to arguably the most fawned-over moment of the night: Hadate’s Murasaki uni, the highest-rated batch of sea urchin available that day, a highly sought-after item that Miyakawa had successfully secured for the day’s service. From one nigiri to another, Sushi Kissho takes diners on an oceanic adventure, hopping from prefecture to prefecture for a taste of the freshest catches and regional specialities.
Its curation of accompanying sake is just as painstaking and features rare homegrown labels including the likes of Kokuryu, Mutsu Hassen, Hakurakusei, and Tatenokawa, which boasts a 180-year-old history. Sushi Kissho is also one of the few establishments that offers a taste of Wa8, a private-label junmai daiginjo sake developed by Sumikawa Shozo Brewery and Wa Creations.
Guests, meanwhile, spectate the goings-on from behind an imposing 300-year-old kiso hinoki cypress slab inlaid with momiji maple-leaf motifs, crafted by a seasoned Japanese carpenter who specialises in constructing counters for sushi restaurants. Hand-installed on-site, this fine centrepiece anchors the minimalist dining space, punctuated by exquisite handmade pottery sourced from generations-old producers and workshops in Japan. Ceramics made by the Miyagawa family, specialists in the delicate art since the Edo period, and antique ikebana baskets add character to the natural setting. As expected of an experience this exclusive, Sushi Kissho seats just 10 at the main carved counter, with another 10 in a private dining room, but you really want to be close to the action to take in the meticulous artistry practised by the masters.
As luck would have it, the restaurant recently announced that Miyakawa will return to Sushi Kissho from 1 to 4 August to offer an exclusive, limited-time omakase menu and curated beverage pairing featuring Japanese wines and spirits that will tantalise the senses. In these bimonthly visits, the chef, alongside his team, will showcase seasonal ingredients sourced from a trusted roster of farmers, foragers, and fishermen.
Run, don’t walk, to make your booking—this is one sushi dinner you don’t want to miss.
2/F, Raffles at Galaxy Macau, Cotai, Macau
Tel: (+853) 8883 2221
All images courtesy of Sushi Kissho.
