On Monday night, Petrus at Island Shangri-La premiered its signature Find Your Shangri-La culinary experience with the city’s epicureans, stars, and socialites. The response? An overwhelming chorus of approval for the refined fine-dining menu, created especially for the occasion by guest chef Emmanuel Renaut, the founder and chef of Flocons de Sel in Megève, France. What he brought to the table, apart from his three Michelin stars floating above him, are novel twists and turns to extraordinary nouveau—if not novel—French cuisine, paired with exquisite wines.
There are key phrases you will see highlighted in all the literature regarding Renaut; inventive style, locally sourced ingredients, elevated dining, unique flair, palette of exquisite flavours, and other hosannahs of that ilk. The trouble is, it is hard to contretemps with it, as the man from Megève does indeed welcome guests into his alpine meal plan with such creative twists and turns, you turn into a nodding fool, agreeing with everything he says that should mix, meet, and melange on a plate.
Almond, and cherry with pea compote? Sure! Lemon marinated hand chopped langoustines with caviar? Why not? Don’t even get me started on the bœuf fou d’herbes, jus tondeuse béarnaise, which roughly translates to “cow that is crazy about grass, béarnaise trimmer sauce.” As a professional eater, not cook, I was mesmerised that these seemingly incongruous ingredients could marry on a plate, and that we’d all be happy to bear witness to these nuptials. Amen.
A set menu created exclusively for Shangri-La, showcasing Renaut’s culinary finesse with an emphasis on seasonal ingredients (wild mushroom, scallops, lemons, onions, langoustines, and caviar galore), the cheerful chef brings his signature whimsy and joy to the table. Or was that the saucy haze brought on by the Côtes de Bourg red from Roc De Cambes? No, it’s the chef—with good reason.
The seams of his aprons are studded with innumerable awards and accolades, including, but not limited to, the prestigious Meilleur Ouvrier de France award, three Michelin stars, and five toques from Gault Millau, the noted restaurant guide. Renaut’s celebrated expertise in transforming fresh, natural produce into vibrant, colourful, and modern cuisine that has earned him worldwide recognition and acclaim, and those Instagrammable, telegenic dishes are widely photographed.
As you turn into towering Petrus on the 56th floor of the hotel, the art and floral display is a prep for the “journey” that lies ahead, bringing the vision of the chef to life at each whimsical meal. Throughout the course of the evening—a chef’s kiss for the sommelier—each generous pour perfectly complemented the gourmet, including a heady Madeira that went with the smoked chocolate tart and wood ice cream. Between the aroma and aftertaste of charred oak infused into the ice cream (how? Don’t ask. There’s some science and magic in the kitchen we’re not privy to), we had to compliment the complements.
If you know someone, who knows someone, try and get a reservation at the Island Shangri-La—quickly. The chef leaves this weekend.
“Find Your Shangri-La” at Petrus
8–13 May 2023
56F, Island Shangri-La, Pacific Place, Supreme Court Road, Admiralty, Hong Kong
(+852) 2820 8590
All images courtesy of Island Shangri-La Hong Kong.
