What is luxury in today’s world? Space, nature, greenery, blue skies, lovely people, heritage and history, amazing wines, sensational food, absolutely incredible art, and authenticity.
It’s all there, at Mas d’en Bruno, the signature property of the Priorat wine region in Catalonia, south of Barcelona, Spain. Perhaps it had company when it was built in the 13th century but today it’s the only building as far as one can see. Look out of the windows, and the vista through 360 degrees is of 100 hectares of lush and wooded hills, including 15 hectares of planted vines that nestle right up to the hotel. Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan, Grenache, Merlot, and Tempranillo—they are all here, waiting to be magically turned into wine by any of the 106 wineries in neighbouring villages, out of sight but not out of a wine lover’s mind.
Best way to arrive at the paradise that is Mas d’en Bruno is direct to its helicopter landing pad—allow 25 minutes (or 90 minutes if driving). By road, it’s a feat of hairpin bends for the last third of the way. Finally, turn yet one more bend and suddenly, in front of you, is a three-floor farmhouse with terracotta and dark cream walls and tile roofing, with an adjacent, long, single-storey sibling. The complex also includes a near-Olympic-sized pool surrounded by lavender and other sweet-smelling greeneries. There are seven open-sided vine-covered cabanas, assorted terracotta sun umbrellas, and an amphitheatre with firepit just right for standing up to recite Shakespeare or Molière or something.
Go into the main building to be greeted by a two-floor open atrium, wood beams, brick, and art. There’s a David Hockney, a Frank Stella, and a unique Ben Jakober wall-set clock. It’s framed all around by books held by their spines so that as the clock turns, oh so slowly, the spines drop and click. Up the stairs, or via the lift, reach more, but static, books. Here, at the gallery looking down to the front hall, is a library that wraps around the downstairs. Working fires, London-club leather armchairs, and eclectic tomes loaned by the hotel’s owner, David Stein, make this the indoor gathering space.
There are 24 bedrooms in all, and favourites include 11 in the main house—lie in the in-bedroom bathtub and soak up vineyard views ad infinitum. In the annexe, get a similar high from soaking in its sizeable plunge pool, caressing vines that seem to want to climb in with you.
David Stein is such a marvellous host. As at all Stein Group properties, it seems, he’s often there, and if he is, you’re in for the best that any raconteur of today can share. Get off-property to see the area (there are two house cars). The ruins of a monastery await, as do many of those still-operating wineries, all of which have fascinating stories—don’t miss the vivacious Canadian manager, Sheri Perricone, at Perinet, part of the Napa-based Alpha Omega Collective of wineries.
Catalonia is the 2025 World Region of Gastronomy and Mas d’en Bruno is making the most of it. All meals can more than satisfy the fussiest, from fruitarians to gastronomic gurus. One night on our visit started with tapas and a tutored tasting of Priorat wines in the subterranean barrel room below the indoor-out bistro in the annexe. Then we moved above ground to the main restaurant, also inside-out. A nearly all-wall window gave an uninterrupted view of chef Josep Queralt and his brigade, tonight busily producing a 2025 version of Catalonia’s bible of food, Llibre de Sent Soví, from 1324 (it’s worth noting that cocoa, potato, and tomatoes weren’t known until 1528). A most attractive little illustrated booklet tells the history of some of the dishes. Try lettuce juice with vinaigrette, an aubergine paté with fresh herbs, and poultry broth with roasted hazelnut. A big conger eel section is baked in pastry, and broken open at the table and presented. Along the evening, at least taste Perinet’s Vinya Pendents Carinyena 2018, which scored 94 from Wine Spectator.
We toasted the past, and today—a restock of real life. We’d been biking—Mas d’en Bruno’s cycle room is professionally set up for up to 20 bicycles, with all necessary tools and a cycle shower. Naturally, they can provide bikes—in our case, Cannondale road bikes—and cycling concierges. And naturally, after that, of course, you need a first-class massage in the spa. It could be all too much but it’s not. It’s genuine. Mas d’en Bruno, simply, puts the biggest-ever smile on your face.
All images courtesy of Mas d’en Bruno.
