French classics are mounting a fierce comeback, and the latest vanguard championing fine dining with a dose of fun are dynamic chef-and-restauranteur duo Franckelie Laloum and Michael Larkin. Lala, a portmanteau of Laloum and Larkin, combines the finesse and meticulous application of haute cuisine with the charms of a neighbourhood brasserie, where diners can expect all the trappings of high gastronomy without the rigid formality.
“Lala was born from a simple idea: to create a neighbourhood French restaurant that people genuinely want to return to. We wanted to make French dining more accessible, lively, and something people can enjoy regularly rather than just for special occasions,” Laloum and Larkin assert. “Instead of a formal, fine-dining approach, we set out to build a space where high-quality food and impeccable service meet a relaxed, convivial atmosphere. […] Lala is about great food, great drinks, and great hospitality. It’s a place where guests feel welcomed and remembered, where the energy is warm and familiar, and where the experience is just as memorable as the meal”—in short, the kind of place you want to come back to time and again.
“French cuisine has such a rich history, but some of the classic dishes, with their heavier flavours and rich creams, don’t suit today’s palates,” Laloum explains. “At Lala, we’re bringing these traditions to life with lighter touches and refined techniques, introducing a younger generation to the beauty of French cooking while keeping it fresh and approachable.”
Laloum and Larkin’s vision is evident from the start. From the chic, abstract-mural-bedecked interiors that scream “upscale” but not staid, to the soundtrack that spins out one recognisable pop hit after another, Lala’s social atmosphere and prominent location in Soho lures you in like a bee to honey, but it’s the food that will inspire the return visits. Laloum has found the sweet spot between exquisite, near-perfectionist execution and familiar, moreish flavours.
A mission such as this requires the right cohorts, and Laloum and Larkin recruited Natalie Leung to helm the pastry programme and Pawel Mikusek to lead the charge on crafting tipples that celebrate the essence of cocktail culture’s golden age. Elsa Jeandedieu Studio did its artistic magic on the centrepiece mural and eye-catching restaurant façade.
“[Our] interiors are designed to feel as welcoming as the food itself—warm, vibrant, and full of life,” the duo says. Originally, the restaurant space was dressed in a deep navy, “which gave it a colder, more formal feel.” Intent on bringing energy and warmth to the interiors, Lala worked with Jeandedieu to create a mural titled À Table, French for “at the table.” Laloum and Larkin affirm that “the mural is more than just a design element; it reflects the soul of Lala. It celebrates the joy of gathering over a meal, the movement of conversation, and the lively spirit we want every guest to experience when they dine here. With its rich colours and gold accents, it completely transforms the space, making it more inviting, dynamic, and full of personality. Lala isn’t about overly polished, stiff interiors—it’s about creating a space where guests feel at ease, whether they’re dropping in for a drink or settling in for a long, relaxed dinner.”
Lala’s vol-au-vent, stuffed with sweetbread, strings of morels, and seasonal mushrooms and fringed by a rich, savoury sauce, is a surprise hit that steals the show. Leung’s exceptional craftsmanship comes to the fore in the execution of the puff pastry, which holds its brittle layers, desirable flake-apart consistency, and delicate mouthfeel even under the challenging condition of being coated and swimming in a creamy sauce—an impressive skill.
“I’m really happy to see how much people love the vol-au-vent. It’s one of those dishes that’s not as common anymore, especially using sweetbreads, but it has quickly become one of our most popular items,” Laloum observes. “We source French sweetbreads, and our supplier is already struggling to keep up with demand—it’s been that well-received. What I love most about it is the contrast: the crisp, golden puff pastry; the creamy Cognac and white-wine sauce; and the depth of flavour from the morels. It’s indulgent but still feels light and balanced. Watching people get excited about it has been one of the best parts of launching Lala.”
Laloum’s reimagined tartare de boeuf, served in the form of a lobster roll with a wave of miso mustard, is whimsical and inventive, reinforcing the restaurant’s light-hearted perspective towards French food. Larkin, who counts the dish among his favourites, explains that “the Polmard beef we use is some of the best in the world—tender, perfectly marbled, packed with umami. [Meanwhile,] the miso mustard gives it this extra layer of savoury depth, and serving it in a buttery brioche roll makes it easy to enjoy in a way that feels indulgent but effortless.”
When it comes to Lala’s poulet jaune, it’s go three-yellow chicken or go home. As the current local trend among fine French restaurants appears to indicate, the unspoken consensus seems to be that without a roasted three-yellow chicken, your menu is not complete, and Lala masterfully puts forth a skilfully roasted fowl. Skin crisp and golden-coloured, the meat is tender and aromatic even without a well of seasoning to let the natural flavours shine through. Koshihikari pearl rice, subtly sweet and umami on the palate, is the expected accompaniment.
“We respect tradition, but we’re not bound by it. French cuisine is rooted in technique, quality ingredients, and a deep appreciation for flavour. […] We don’t aim to redefine French food—we aim to refine it. Our roast chicken, for example, is as classic as it gets, but we spent years perfecting the process—testing different birds, refining the cooking technique, and elevating the flavours in a way that makes it as much about texture and depth as it is about tradition.
“Some dishes, like the frog legs, are prepared in the most traditional way possible, with a simple garlic-parsley butter. Others, like the vol-au-vent, honour the original concept but feel a little more modern—made with French sweetbreads, wrapped in golden pastry, and finished with a velvety, Cognac-infused sauce,” Laloum and Larkin remark.
“Lala is built on three fundamental pillars: great food, genuine hospitality, and an atmosphere that keeps people coming back. Success in hospitality isn’t about chasing trends—it’s about consistency, connection, and creating a place that people genuinely love,” the duo says.
“We’re not reinventing French cuisine—we’re celebrating it by creating a space where great food meets a relaxed vibe, making French dining more approachable, and perfect for every day, not just special occasions,” Laloum concludes. “At the end of the day, it’s not about changing French cuisine—it’s about making it exciting, relevant, and full of life.”
And to that we say, mission accomplished.
G/F, 29 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, Hong Kong
Tel: (+852) 2506 0990
All images courtesy of Lala.
