There’s been much debate on the new codes of luxury, especially post-Covid. At Italian menswear luxury label Stefano Ricci, it seems to rest with the luxury of time, traveling with a purpose, and a sense of grand exploration.
For over half a century, the Florence-born, family-run menswear brand has built a reputation for its impeccable, unyielding quality and outfits that exude masculine sophistication and Italian flair. After celebrating the milestones of the brand, the sons of the founder, brothers Niccolo (CEO) and Filippo (creative director), are spearheading Stefano Ricci Explorer, a concept celebrating world adventure and discovery.
Cue events and campaigns shot in Egypt, Iceland, and now, their most ambitious project to date: a spring-summer 2024 campaign photographed in the Galápagos Islands, captured by Mattias Klum, famed Swedish photographer, artist, filmmaker, and National Geographic fellow. During the construction of the project, a sizeable donation to the Charles Darwin Foundation for the Galápagos Islands was given; this will help the foundation’s extensive research and preserve the unique biodiversity of the islands.
“I think exploring needs to be done in a very thoughtful way,” assures Klum, who is also a notable environmentalist. “I mean, the fact that we are putting pressure on the planetary systems means that we, of course, need to lighten our footprint.
“I personally only take on projects where I think that it can be exploratory and add to a positive mind shift for people, where the audience or the companies I work for can help bridge the gap between our beautiful, emotional, human heart and our great, smart human mind, an interaction between EQ and IQ.”
“People have been at home for the longest time,” adds Filippo Ricci. “I think the new frontier is to travel, to experience, and live life at its best.”
The mindset of their well-heeled clients has become more liberated and exploratory this year with good reason—the claustrophobia of the recent past has borne the agoraphilia (the love of open spaces) of today.
“Without overthinking too much, they are simply enjoying shopping again,” Niccolo Ricci explains, emphasising the return to dressing up (a central theme in our 2023 Best in Style feature), embracing classic lace-up shoes, made –to-measure items, tailored suits, and the casual elegance of sports jackets. “Comfort is important, but to be elegant and comfortable at the same time is key.”
Niccolo adds that, at the house, “the main problem we have is not to sell but increasing production to keep up with the demand.” A happy challenge, if ever.
In the latest collection, there’s a profusion of earth-toned blousons in silk and jersey, deconstructed jackets in shades of blue, ivory, and eggshell. The summer essentials, according to the brand, feature striped handmade Torino shirts, crew neck t-shirts, swim shorts, and Bermuda shorts in a variety of hues for Prosecco days at the beach. Accessories like suede driving shoes and loafers stand out and so does the addition of easy slip-on shoes and technical fabric and calfskin leather sneakers—a welcome sight among the usual polished sheen of derby brogue shoes.
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Certain staples from the maison remain: the hand-printed silk tie sets, and single-breasted suits and basic dress shirts that run the gamut of colours. The campaign may be heading out into the world, but the essentials are never too far off home base.
For the Stefano Ricci customer, the brand needs to deliver emotional attachment and products that exceed threaded expectations. Despite the challenging past years, the Stefano Ricci store at Hong Kong’s Peninsula hotel is seeing a resurgence, attracting well-heeled locals and international tourists alike.
The brand is also set to expand in thoughtful increments, opening new stores in Asia in Singapore’s Changi Airport and in the heart of Beijing, expanding its global presence. Some of the brand’s best new ideas arise from a casual lunch or dinner with clients, the brothers say. “It’s a constant test that they’re giving us to see if you can prove, once again, if we can create something even more thrilling or exciting for them. We are challenged every season by our clients,” says Niccolo.
Reeling back to the origins, when their father started the label, it was just with a selection of ties, crafted from pure silk. Over the decades, the label has expanded beyond the realm of menswear, delving into accessories, interiors, and home décor. This all centres around a love for refined textiles, materials sourced from the world’s finest producers, and a design philosophy that embraces timeless elegance, abstaining from the hubris of trend or fad.
Now, the daily challenges to continually delight and exceed client expectations, the emotional aspect between brand and client, and the drive to explore and go further helps to coalesce the world of luxury Italian menswear with the Stefano Ricci Explorer collection, the Galápagos Islands, and the work of a photographer like Klum.
“I have for most of my career worked on ethnic minorities in peril or endangered species or vulnerable ecosystems,” Klum explains, “So yes, having a high-end fashion brand juxtaposed in the midst of this remarkable natural space is obviously something I don’t do every day. But I think it worked well.” The images here attest to that notion.
Ancient forests, deep-blue ocean, sand dunes, giant cacti, and a volcano provide both context and character for this latest otherworldly campaign. The island’s unique wildlife is featured with a collection that offers Italian sartorial flair in a careful balance of colour, fabrication, and design. These are images that fire up the imagination are meant to inspire the (well-dressed) explorer in every Stefano Ricci client.
Whilst humans put “unprecedented pressure on our ecosystems,” Klum likes to find projects “where the ambition is to explain nature’s vulnerability and the mind shift we need to find a safe operating space for humanity on this fragile planet.”
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The Ricci brand too is taking note. The donation to the Charles Darwin Foundation for the Galápagos Islands is just the beginning. The Riccis are also ramping up conscious efforts towards more eco-friendly ventures and social responsibility, reflected in manufacturing, environmentally-friendly methods, and ethical sourcing whilst maintaining its commitment to extraordinary craftsmanship. This isn’t just “green-washing” from a brand that’s shifted considerable resources and finance to the cause.
But, of course, there are more steps they could take. “It’s about the journey, not the destination” seems an apt platitude to slide in here. Sifting through the latest collection that’s now available in the signature store housed in The Pensinsula Hong Kong, one thing that is perpetual throughout the seasons is the calibre of their materials, craft, and fabric, from cashmere luxe trainers and lined sports jackets to silk jersey summer shirts and that perfectly tailored, razor-sharp suit.
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“You should be aware that with a product from Stefano Ricci, there is a special story behind it. There are special artisans that have been working on it with all the hand craftsmanship involved,” says Filippo, donning his creative director hat. “From the quality, you know immediately it’s something different from what you find on the market. And if you get used to it, I always say that we are potentially… highly addictive.”
He laughs.
All photography by Mattias Klum. Images courtesy of Stefano Ricci.