“Overwhelming” is the word that comes to mind at first glance of the red, alien bridal number from the Legends collection, a hedonistic chapter, and one of five, on exhibit in the cavernous halls of M+ contemporary visual arts museum. The 40 pieces on display, standing on elevated platforms, are curated designer confections from the grand portfolio of Guo Pei, each piece etching its mark in the annals of fashion history.

Guo, possibly the most famous couturier to emerge from China on the global stage, is the visionary designer renowned for her intricate craftsmanship and artistic acumen, creating otherworldly ensembles that fuse art, history, and craftsmanship in ways hitherto unimagined. She has even captured the imagination of audiences worldwide, particularly since songstress Rihanna wore her golden cape to the Met Gala in 2015.

As Guo prepares to showcase some of her most iconic works, one early morning before the crowds saunter in, we at Robb Report Hong Kong had an exclusive conversation with the couturier. Delving into her creative process, the significance of her journey, and her reflections on the evolving landscape of fashion, much was discussed.

Guo greets me with a warm smile, holding both hands to belie her nervousness. “It’s a bit overwhelming, to be honest,” she admits, glancing around the expansive exhibition space. “This is a moment I’ve long anticipated—a chance to bring my works back to my roots.” The exhibition represents not just a showcase of her artistry but a deep connection to her heritage and history. “The significance of this exhibition lies in its context,” she explains. “Hong Kong has always served as a window to the world for mainland designers like myself. In the 1980s and 1990s, it was the fashion capital, a hub of creativity and inspiration. To exhibit my works here feels like a homecoming.”

As we delve deeper into her creative process, Guo reveals the meticulous thought that went into selecting the pieces for this exhibition. “I wanted to convey a narrative—one that speaks not only to my journey as a designer but also to the evolution of fashion in China.” Each piece tells a unique story, reflecting pivotal moments in her life and career.

“For instance, Da Jin (“Magnificent Gold”) signifies the beginning of my journey into fashion art. It’s a piece that took 50,000 hours to create, and it embodies a turning point for me, marking my entry into the global fashion narrative,” she continues. 

The significance of her blue-and-white porcelain dress—yet another standout piece, often referenced in her works—adds another layer of meaning. “Porcelain has been a cultural ambassador for China for centuries. It is a symbol of beauty and craftsmanship that resonates deeply with both Eastern and Western audiences.”

Guo’s admiration for her contemporaries is palpable. “I remember being inspired by designers like William Tang and Lulu Cheung in my youth—they were the pioneers, and I looked up to them,” she reflects. “Today, I find joy in reconnecting with them as equals in this vibrant industry.” This sense of camaraderie extends to her peers, whose reaction to her work she values. “I am eager to see how my compatriots perceive these pieces,” she notes on the importance of audience engagement in her creative journey.

Art, for Guo, is more than a visual experience; it is a language that transcends words. “Each piece is a dialogue with the viewer, an expression of my inner thoughts and emotions. Golden Boat, for example, is not merely a garment; it represents a journey—a vessel for our dreams and aspirations,” she explains. This poignant metaphor encapsulates her philosophy: art is a vessel for exploration, both within oneself and in relation to the world she cohabits, whether in real life or her technicolour dreams.

“I believe that every individual carries their own ‘golden boat’ within them, navigating the complexities of life. My art seeks to resonate with that experience, to evoke a sense of shared humanity,” she elaborates. In her works, Guo invites viewers to embark on their own journeys, encouraging introspection and connection.

When discussing the aesthetics of her creations, Guo speaks passionately about the tension between complexity and simplicity. “Many young designers today gravitate towards minimalism, perhaps as a reaction to the overwhelming nature of modern life. While I appreciate the beauty in simplicity, I also believe in the power of complexity.”

Her designs often embody a rich tapestry of textures, colours, and intricate details. “Fashion should be an exploration of beauty in all its forms. It is not merely about aesthetics—it is about storytelling,” she insists. “Each stitch, each layer, contributes to a narrative that is uniquely crafted.” As a custodian of cultural heritage, Guo holds the keys for the next generation, feeling profound responsibility to preserve and promote the traditions of her homeland. “I often tell young designers that our cultural heritage is not just a relic of the past; it is a living entity that must evolve. I want to inspire the next generation to embrace their roots and carry them forward into the future.”

Her commitment to cultural preservation extends to her advocacy for traditional Chinese wedding attire. “Every bride should wear traditional Chinese wedding garments. It is a celebration of our heritage and a duty to pass on these cultural legacies,” she states passionately, her hands a flurry of motion and activity. “In this way, we ensure that our culture remains vibrant and relevant.”

As we navigate the complexities of the fashion industry, Guo reflects on the challenges and opportunities that lie ahead. “The landscape is ever-changing. With it comes the responsibility to adapt and innovate. However, I believe that authenticity remains paramount. In a world saturated with trends, staying true to one’s vision is what sets a designer apart.”

The influence of global pop culture, particularly in the realm of celebrity, has not escaped her notice. “When Rihanna wore one of my pieces to the Met Gala, it was a moment that transcended borders. It showcased the power of fashion as a universal language,” she recalls, her eyes lighting up with pride, but it’s her expressive hands that provide emotion. “It was a testament to the impact that cultural exchange can have on our understanding of beauty.”

When asked about her perspective on luxury, Guo offers a nuanced view. “Luxury is not merely about opulence or extravagance; it is about the richness of experience and connection,” she explains. “True luxury lies in the dedication and passion behind the creation of a piece. It is about the love and care that goes into each stitch.”

Luxury, for her, is also intertwined with the concept of giving. “In our tradition, we believe in serving others. This idea resonates with my understanding of luxury—what can I give to the world through my art?” she muses. “In this sense, luxury becomes a shared experience, a celebration of beauty that elevates the human spirit.”

As our conversation draws to a close, Guo expresses her hopes for the future of fashion. “I envision a world where designers embrace their cultural identities while engaging in a global conversation. We are all part of a larger narrative, and our stories enrich the tapestry of fashion.”

As we head out through the long corridors of the museum, she enquires about showing her work in other parts of the world, in places she’s never been, like India. “You know, in China, many of the master craftsmen and embroiders are men. In India, I’ve heard they are women working these skills, too. Some of the embroidery skills I’ve incorporated are from India. I’d love to exhibit my work there one day,” she says, her voice trailing off as I lose her to a vision. It’s a manifestation that’s bound to come true—just look how far her own journey has brought her in the past decades. 

With a twinkle in her eye, she adds, “Ultimately, I hope to inspire others to see that fashion is not just about what we wear; it is a reflection of who we are and how we connect with one another. My journey is but a chapter in this ongoing story, and I am excited to see where it leads.”

All original images by Chris Yau, shot exclusively for Robb Report Hong Kong.