Women in Charge

In the inaugural issue of Robb Report Hong Kong, as we edited the layouts of the Best in Jewellery pages, an off-the-cuff remark lingered a minute longer than intended: three of the selected jewellery pieces looked alarmingly “the same,” in the form of a sapphire pendant strung with diamonds of excessive size, carat, and breathtaking cost. High jewellery is not one for the faint of wallet. Now, of course, the brands themselves would have lost their hat illuminating on how distinguished and distinct their statement necklaces are, but from a healthy distance, without a gemological microscope, there is a familiarity to accessories from heritage houses.

In 2025, the same cannot be said. Armed with that mental Post-it and perspective, we fanned out to look for variety—the spice of life. It is as if the designer brands saw our yellow canary in the coal mine and delivered. A usual treasure trove of emeralds and diamonds aside, we saw cameos of onyx, amethyst, aquamarine, opal, topaz, and jade make dazzling appearances. Many campaigns were shot not in claustrophobic studios, but out at the beach, in gardens, on mountains, and in deserts, letting buyers know that the pieces are not meant just for annual balls and parties to complement gown and glory, but to be worn often. Jewellery should be part of one’s daily life as each artisan celebrates the wearer as much as the stone.

High jewellery today offers a wider and broader landscape, and there has been a seismic shift in who runs, controls, directs, and designs—these women know exactly what women want. Francesca Amfitheatr of left Tiffany & Co. as Bernard Arnault, in a shuffle of musical chairs, asked her to lead Louis Vuitton’s watches and jewellery division as artistic director. It’s all in-house news, of course, as Arnault acquired the maison where Nathalie Verdeille has done stellar work behind the seams of the silver ribbon that ties all those coveted blue boxes together. Val.rie Messika makes her premiere appearance on the list as her eponymous brand—Messika—celebrates its 20th year. Caroline Scheufele, co-president and artistic director of Chopard, has held her position at the top for decades and Lucia Silvestri, creative director of Bulgari, has a firm grasp on where the house’s iconic serpentine strands are heading.

Women have led the charge in changing the industry from within, from ore to orb, and their beautiful accessories are all ethically sourced as we read time and again in announcements from each maison. In 2025, let it be said that with great beauty comes great responsibility

MODERN CLASSIC

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
L’Île au Trésor Collection

Inspired by the timeless literary classic, Treasure Island by Robert Louis Stevenson, the rich chapters of Van Cleef & Arpels have welcomed a riveting page with its latest high jewellery collection. This glittering range serves as a tribute to the adventure and imagination encapsulated within the novel, which has resonated with generations of readers.

Van Cleef & Arpels’s commitment to infusing joy into its creations, drawing upon the rich tapestry of literature and artistry, is second to none. L’.le au Tr.sor unfolds in three captivating chapters: “Adventure at Sea,” “Exploring the Island,” and “The Treasure Hunt” each showcase the maison’s unparalleled craftsmanship and a diverse array of precious stones. From luxurious necklaces adorned with vibrant sapphires to intricately designed clips that evoke the spirit of maritime exploration, each piece is a testament to the company’s innovative spirit. The level of meticulous artisanry reflects a deep appreciation for nature and far-flung

cultures, seamlessly blending history with contemporary design. Be it a variety of stones, colour, vibrancy, or novelty, Van Cleef & Arpels’s entire collection captivates. With its imaginative narrative and exquisite workmanship, the L’.le au Tr.sor collection not only pays homage to a literary masterpiece but also invites wearers to embark on their own journey of discovery through the enchanting world of Van Cleef & Arpels.

ARTISTIC EXCELLENCE

ANNA HU
Dance of Dunhuang Brooch

In her latest creation, the Dance of Dunhuang brooch, jewellery artist Anna Hu masterfully intertwines Eastern and Western cultural narratives to create an exquisite piece that is both jewellery and sculptural artefact—as Hu has historically been prone to do.

Hu’s design echoes the ethereal flying apsaras depicted in the historic murals of the Dunhuang Mogao caves, a site renowned for its artistic fusion of Buddhist and Han cultures. The duality of this dazzling creation draws inspiration from the tulip, a flower with a rich history that traversed the ancient Silk Road, symbolising luxury and diplomacy. Crafted with meticulous skill, the brooch features a stunning 112.32-carat natural pearl, reminiscent of a tulip’s goblet shape, cradled within gem-encrusted petals. Complemented by a slender 37.51-carat pearl serving as the stem, the piece embodies the vibrant colours of rare tulip varieties through meticulously set yellow and pink diamonds, sapphires, and brilliant-cut diamonds.

HONG KONG ORIGINAL

QEELIN
Bamboo Collection

When Qeelin unveiled its exquisite new Bamboo fine-jewellery collection, featuring a delicate necklace crafted in white gold and adorned with jadeite and diamonds for a modern interpretation on classic Chinese adornments, it has been in the eyeline of jewellery editors the world over. Qeelin takes the essence of cultural appreciation and hones it down to silhouettes that can be transported to any part of the globe just as the Hong Kong brand, launched in 2004, has been transported from humble shores to the red carpet of Cannes.

Elements of Chinese art and artistry are studded throughout the collection. Complementing this piece, the Orchid clip, also in white gold, showcases stunning rubies and diamonds; there’s also a striking Panda clip set with emeralds and diamonds, alongside earrings and an elegant necklace, all assembled in white gold. Each piece in the latest collection exemplifies Qeelin’s commitment to craftsmanship and luxury. 

In the gravely serious business of high stakes and high jewellery, Qeelin has something that perhaps the others do not: a sense of cheeky fun.

RED-CARPET READY

CHOPARD
Fairy Earrings

Come May each year, the haute joaillerie workshops at Chopard unveil their creative prowess with the signature Red Carpet collection, meticulously crafted under the artistic vision of co-president and artistic director Caroline Scheufele. Held during the Cannes Film Festival—an official partnership since 1998—this annual showcase has become a highly anticipated event in the maison’s jewellery calendar and indeed ours, for it sets the tone for what Hollywood will wear for the coming year, if not decade. Stars of all stripes, reigning families of Europe, and the swans of society, both local and international, are known to cherry-pick from the limited-edition Chopard pieces. In 2024, the collection, Contes de F.es, featured 77 enchanting creations inspired by the whimsical world of fairy tales, captivating the spirit of La Croisette.

Chopard paid homage to nature’s splendour through remarkable pieces that blend realism with fantasy. A sculptural necklace, for instance, draws inspiration from a majestic oak tree, symbolising strength while housing various small creatures. Crafted from ethical rose gold and titanium, this intricate design required the expertise of four skilled artisans over six months. Each piece tells a story, from a delicate mushroom ring adorned with diamonds to ethereal earrings featuring butterflies set with aquamarines. Chopard’s commitment to innovation and artisanry redefines haute joaillerie, ensuring each creation resonates with elegance and imagination.

JEWELLERY OF THE YEAR

CARTIER
Nature Sauvage Collection

Cartier’s opulent Nature Sauvage high-jewellery collection is a treasured menagerie of magnificent jewels, and it’s unlike anything else in the treasure trove of our Best in Jewellery pages this year. Drawing inspiration from the house’s legendary animal motifs, this exquisite collection reimagined the creatures in contemporary and playful forms.

Cartier’s creative team dedicated over two years to sourcing rare gemstones, such as a 22-carat antique Ceylon sapphire, pink rubellites, and black onyx, among other precious stones, culminating in 87 unique pieces. Launched with regal fanfare in Vienna last summer among the glitterati, the Nature Sauvage collection was showcased at the historic Kursalon Hübner music hall, where the timeless allure of Cartier’s animal-themed jewels continues to captivate.

“We sought to capture the essence of the animal,” says Jacqueline Karachi, Cartier’s creative director of high jewellery, contemplating the expressions and movements of the seductive, sly, and wild creatures, particularly Cartier’s famed panth.re that makes several cameos in the collection. Any singular piece from the dazzling Cartier menagerie is exceptional: a green jasper crocodile cuff carved to perfection, a lapis-lazuli bird pendant redolent with diamond feathers, the zebra-print graphic on a statement necklace, or the large graphic rings alluding to the unknown wilderness. As the name indicates, the savage beauty of Cartier is undeniable.

EMERALDS

FORMS
Colombian Emerald, Diamond, and Shakudō Bracelet

As it has been noted before, we love to find hidden gems (pun intended) but discovering local jewellery brand Forms—with its head office and showroom in the heart of Hong Kong—has been an eye-opening affair to remember. Over its 15 years of operation, with not a billboard in sight, nor a celebrity peddling its wares, Forms, established in 2010, has quietly garnered attention among the handful of ladies and gentlemen saddled with not only discerning taste, but a providence for hunting down rare gems, artisanship, and genteel branding.

Initially focused on assembling a talented team of artisans and refining its creative voice, Forms’recognition surged following an invitation from the prestigious TEFAF Maastricht art fair three years ago. No longer able to stay hidden and humble, the veil has been lifted and what lies beneath simply dazzles. From its gorgeously curated collection, our eyes are on this emerald, diamond, and shakudō bracelet, composed of 12 graduated cushion-shaped emeralds of blue-green hue and excellent brilliance, with square emerald-cut diamonds, decorated with a shakudō rim, and circular-cut diamonds mounted in 18-carat white gold and shakudō. Forms’ inspiration for this exquisite piece stems from an architectural and minimalistic ethos, utilising a bare metal framework to accentuate the captivating hues of Colombian emeralds. Its unique creation is not merely a limited edition; it stands as a singular work of art. Rather than drawing inspiration from a specific muse, Forms embodies a broader concept, respecting rare materials and exploring the limits of design and craftsmanship.

As a whole, the brand is committed to sourcing precious stones directly from mines and vintage collections, resulting in an impressive array of unique gems. As Forms continues to evolve, its international identity is shaped by a diverse team, reflecting a rich tapestry of cultural inspirations. Of all the labels we tip our hat to, “Made in Hong Kong” bests them all.

MODERN INNOVATION

MESSIKA
White Midnight Sun Necklace

Over the course of the past year, it has been increasingly difficult to ignore this Parisian brand as every major female celebrity worth her stars and stripes has been sporting Messika.

Famed for easy-to-wear, ready-to-wear contemporary jewellery that can be donned daily, Messika’s accessories are distinctly subtle. Delicate strings of novel shapes and silhouettes complement the contours of a woman in constant motion, possibly because the maker herself was a young upstart in the business who created jewellery for women like herself: busy and jet-setting but armed with a signature accessory that dazzles as much as she does.

Founded in 2005, the maison, under the astute leadership of Val.rie Messika, has rejuvenated the allure of diamonds, captivating a new generation of admirers. As the sole female executive in France to helm her own independent jewellery brand, Messika’s influence is profound. In our Best in Jewellery pages, we have featured luxury brands founded over a century ago (and even two centuries in some cases) while Messika celebrates its 20th anniversary—a milestone year.

From a young age, Val.rie Messika was immersed in the world of diamonds, inspired by her father, Andr., a prominent figure in the international diamond trade. It is this familial legacy that ignited her passion, leading her to forge her own distinctive path in jewellery design. Characterised by elegant simplicity, her designs allow the diamonds to take centre stage, evoking a sense of ethereal beauty. Messika’s flagship boutique on Rue Saint-Honor., alongside the recently unveiled high-jewellery atelier, epitomises the maison’s commitment to artistry and sophistication. Val.rie Messika’s vision continues to empower women, encouraging them to embrace their individuality through the transformative power of jewellery. With stores now dotted around Asia, this one’s not only one to watch, but one to wear every single day.

STATEMENT NECKLACE

TIFFANY & CO.
Tiffany Céleste Collection

Jean Schlumberger’s enduring legacy is once more preserved in Tiffany & Co.’s latest Blue Book high-jewellery collection. Tiffany C.leste is a tribute to the visionary designer, radiantly capturing his profound fascination with the cosmos. Under the expert guidance of Nathalie Verdeille, the maison’s chief artistic officer, this collection reinterprets Schlumberger’s iconic motifs of the sun, moon, and stars, alongside fantastical realms. Among the highlights, the breathtaking Wings necklace stands out, featuring an extraordinary D-colour, internally flawless oval diamond exceeding 20 carats. Meticulously crafted over the course of 1,732 hours, the piece is complemented by an array of exquisite diamonds totalling over 76 carats.

“The Tiffany Blue Book collection narrates the remarkable legacy of our craftsmanship, showcasing the world’s finest diamonds and gemstones,” says Anthony Ledru, president and CEO of the famed brand that was immortalised so elegantly by Audrey Hepburn, no less. Breakfast at Tiffany’s in Hong Kong may not be as easy to do, but one can certainly feast on the myriad options on the velveteen trays, studded with glittering accessories.

SETTING

CHAUMET
Chaumet en Scène Collection

Chaumet unveiled its latest high-jewellery collection, Chaumet en Scène, last summer in Vienna (a trend that was not lost on us), featuring a breathtaking celebration of artistic disciplines that unfolds through three meticulously curated tableaux.

Chaumet en Scène epitomises the maison’s dedication to the art of movement, showcasing 38 exquisite pieces adorned with exceptional gemstones, including a remarkable 15.63-carat series of Mozambique rubies, a 10.18-carat D-FL Type IIa diamond necklace, and a striking 10.76-carat Colombian emerald ring. Chaumet’s opening tableau, “Setting the Tempo,” harmoniously juxtaposes emeralds, sapphires, and diamonds, creating a melodic visual experience. In “Leading the Dance,” Ceylon sapphires and tourmalines engage in a spirited choreography, embodying the elegance of movement. Chaumet en Scène culminates with “As If by Magic,” where artisans from 12 Vend.me employ their craft to create enchanting illusions with shimmering diamonds and pearls.

WHIMSICAL

WELLENDORFF
Genuine Love Ring

In the realm of exquisite goldsmithing, Wellendorff has masterfully crafted iconic pieces rooted in personal love stories; the Wellendorff rope, bracelet, and ring exemplify this artistic approach. Christoph Wellendorff reflects on the creation of the “most vibrant ring” which was designed to withstand the rigours of daily life with its innovative enamel. Georg Wellendorff eyes the “finest bracelet,” a flexible gold masterpiece that caters to women’s desire for independence and effortless elegance. Meanwhile, Eva Wellendorff recalls her quest for the “softest necklace,” a silky creation reminiscent of cherished memories. Together, these pieces embody the soul of timeless luxury, merging innovative craftsmanship with emotional narratives.

Discovering the enchanting allure of Wellendorff icons that were released over the past few months has been like looking at the personal diary of an institution and legacy. How significant is the aspect of family with a treasured company like this, which has been around since 1893? Why, matriarch Eva Wellendorff will write you an email once a month in which she reveals more about special-edition jewellery as they are released, giving insights into how the pieces came into being with notes included—here’s a company that is transforming the concept of personalisation like no one else. We are not one for sentiment when it comes to diamonds, emeralds, and a string of pearls, but it is good to know more about a company that has been around for more than 130 years, with not just accessories, but a heart of gold.

SCULPTURAL EXPRESSION

HARRY WINSTON
Marvelous Peacock Timepiece

Perhaps it’s a given, considering the on-point name, but this stunning high-jewellery timepiece from the house of Harry Winston transcends conventional design—it’s a feat of technical brilliance, workmanship, and rarity. As a peacock in full feathered glory often does, this creation simply had to stand alone on its own. A holy trinity of pure luxury, seamlessly integrating a functional handheld fan, a concealed watch, and an elegant table clock, the Marvelous Peacock timepiece is that not-so-little something for someone who has it all.

Crafted from lightweight titanium, the fan comprises 12 intricately carved feathers adorned with over 20 carats of precious gemstones, including brilliant-cut diamonds and a captivating pear-shaped blue sapphire totalling five carats. Its exquisite black and white marquetry pays homage to the Art Deco era, showcasing a dazzling interplay of mother-of-pearl and onyx. At its base, a three-dimensional peacock, meticulously set in 18-carat gold and diamonds, unfurls its iridescent train, revealing a hidden watch dial upon a gentle twist. With its 4,456 components, this timepiece epitomises the craftsmanship and innovation synonymous with the house that Harry built

MATERIAL INNOVATION

HEMMERLE
Earrings

Founded in 1893, Hemmerle is a distinguished family-run jeweller based in Munich, celebrated for its exceptional, one-of-a-kind designs that exemplify a harmonious blend of innovative materials and unparalleled prowess. Each piece is imbued with cultural significance, elevating it to the status of a unique work of art, making Hemmerle’s jewellery creations some of the most coveted accessories among the doyennes of high society.

Established by brothers Joseph and Anton Hemmerle, the brand has since evolved into a venerated name within the haute joaillerie sector. Its jewellers employ an array of exquisite gemstones, such as orange-pink sapphires, green diamonds, and conch pearls, often set against unconventional materials including copper, steel, and wood. Each creation is meticulously crafted as a singular masterpiece, utilising rare materials like South China Sea melo pearls and blue aquamarines sourced from

the Santa Maria mines in Brazil. 

Among Hemmerle’s imaginative designs are the tassel earrings, crafted using a traditional Austrian technique that seamlessly knits together cut stones into invisibly stitched strands, often showcasing vibrant colours. Any of Hemmerle’s earrings (on the page or in the company’s purview) can be a stylist’s dream pick at any given date, and a date you must set with them for private viewings; the signature store might be at Maximilianstra.e in Munich (since 1904) but Hemmerle tours the world at the appointed hour for those in the know.

ICON REINVENTION

LOUIS VUITTON
Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds Collection

Louis Vuitton’s 2024 high-jewellery collection, Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds, eloquently captures the spirit of 19th-century France, a time marked by extraordinary innovation and artistry. Comprising 220 exquisite jewels spanning 13 themes, this release celebrates the vibrant legacy of French savoir-faire and the illustrious craftsmen who shaped it.

Francesca Amfitheatrof, artistic director for watches and jewellery at Louis Vuitton, took invaluable notes from the era’s profound transformation when Paris emerged as the epicentre of luxury and creativity. Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds features remarkable pieces such as the Splendeur necklace, adorned with meticulously matched rubies, and the intricate Séduction necklace, showcasing a striking emerald. Each creation embodies the maison’s commitment to craftsmanship, with a focus on traceability and ethical sourcing, reflecting Louis Vuitton’s dedication to both heritage and modernity. (In fact, ethical sourcing is a mantra you will hear often in these pages as the industry goes through a root-to-leaf overhaul, stemming from ecological changes and sociological awareness to be more responsible companies.)

. . . AND THE BEST IN MEN’S JEWELRY

David Yurman high-geared into action an entire collection of high jewellery exclusively for men at the dawn of 2024 with Black Panther and Creed star Michael B. Jordan as model and muse. In the following 12 months, our editors have been stunned by gentlemen in dazzling accessories. Among them, these caught our eye, from the subtle to the sublime.